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Off Track - Culinary Cues

“There is no love greater than the love of good food,” said George Bernard Shaw, and we couldn’t agree more. It’s food, glorious food, which makes the world go round- and disregard anything those starry-eyed lovers may tell you. Spicy curries and crisp salads, fragrant pulaos and hearty pies, soups and stirfries and gravadlax…there’s a wonderfully exciting world out there for the travelling gourmet- and gourmand- to savour. A world where recipes change, not at every national frontier, but from one home to the next, where one dish appears in a million different forms. A gorgeously satisfying world just waiting to be explored.

So grab the cutlery, polish the chopsticks- and set off on a voyage of discovery. Bon appétit, Buon appetito, Guten appetit and iBuen provecho- let the good times roll!

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Creole, New Orleans

Louisiana: the home of the wonderful cuisine known as Creole. American, but not quite; European, but not quite. A fabulous combination of diverse culinary heritages, Creole is a rich, exuberant style of cooking which makes liberal use of butter, cream, tomatoes and what is locally called `the holy trinity’- celery, green peppers and onion. Jambalaya

New Orleans’ first settlers were French, and their food, based on buttery roux, stocks and cream, formed the basis for Creole cooking. To this were added ingredients and recipes from the cuisine of the native Americans, the African slaves and settlers from Germany, Spain and Italy. What emerged was a spicy, flavoursome cuisine, creatively using the locally available seafood, chicken, sausages and vegetables: braised, grilled, stewed and baked.

Today, Creole food is served all across the US- and abroad, too; but for the real McCoy, you’ve got to go to New Orleans. The city’s restaurants serve all the local specialties: gumbo, jambalaya, shrimps Creole, red beans and rice, hushpuppies and more. If you can time your trip for Mardi Gras- well, there’s nothing quite like it! And to give you a taste of what Creole is all about, here’s something to try your hand at:

Jambalaya 

680 gm smoked German sausage, sliced
540 gm minced beef
3 tbsp flour
2 onions, chopped and 1 bunch green onions, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
1.5  cups celery, diced
0.25 tsp thyme and 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
450 tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp mixed Creole spices (paprika, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, cayenne powder and oregano)
1 cup raw rice
450 gm raw shrimp, peeled
Oil

Brown meat in a heavy pan, then remove, draining off all but 3 tbsp of oil. Add flour to the oil in the pan and brown over a very low heat, for about ½ hour, stirring constantly. Add onions, green onions, green pepper, celery, thyme, parsley and garlic; cook till soft. Add meat, tomatoes and half a cup of water, along with salt and spices. Bring to a boil, add rice, cover and simmer till the rice is done. Lastly, add shrimp and toss till the shrimp turns pink.

Happy eating!

For more information on New Orleans, click here.

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Nonya/Peranakan, Singapore

Nonya Cuisine Some of the best culinary traditions in the world are the result of fusion- and the distinctive South-East Asian cuisine known as Peranakan is no exception. Peranakan is a fairly localised style of cooking indigenous to the Peranakan or Straits-born Chinese community, which evolved 2-3 centuries ago by intermarriages between Chinese traders and Malay women. The fusion of the two cultures resulted in a distinct set of customs, a typical dialect, unusual clothing and- inevitably- an excellent culinary tradition.

Affectionately known as `Nonya’, after the Peranakan women, who are called `Nonyas’ (as opposed to the men, who are called `Babas’), Peranakan food combines the best of Chinese and Malay cooking, with a stunning spectrum of ingredients- everything from pork and rice to coconut, blue ginger, lime leaves, tamarind, pandanus and the fiery, flavourful prawn-chilli paste known as belacan.  

Singapore is the place to go to sample the best Nonya cooking in the world. This lively city, with its dozens of Nonya restaurants and food stalls, offers some of the most authentic Nonya cuisine you’ll find anywhere- including delicacies such as the curry-coconut soup called laksa lemak; babi pongteh (pork in yellow bean gravy) and ulam, a salad combining raw vegetables with a spicy shrimp sauce.

For a taste of Nonya food, try this out: 

Otak Otak

650 gm fish, minced finely
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1.5 cups coconut milk
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 tbsp sugar
Salt to taste
8 kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced

Spice mixture

4 candlenuts
20 dried red chillies
40 gm galangal
0.50 tsp turmeric powder
1 stalk lemon grass
2”x2”x0.25” thick piece belacan
10 shallots, chopped
1 tbsp roasted coriander seed, powdered

Soak candlenuts and chillies in warm water for ½ hour, then drain. Add to the spice mix ingredients (except powdered coriander and shallots) and pound till fine. Finally, add shallots and coriander powder.

Heat a wok, add the oil and bung in the spice mix. Stirfry for 5 minutes, add the coconut milk and cook till just below boiling point. Take the wok off the heat, cool, and add the egg, followed by the fish, kaffir leaves, salt and sugar. Mix well and pour into a greased cake mould. Steam for 20-25 minutes, or, if you want to do it the authentic way, wrap the fish mixture in banana leaves and barbecue over hot coals.

For more information on Singapore, click here.

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Tuscan, Florence

For a taste of good Italian food, Tuscany is where you should be headed- a land of sunsoaked hills covered with groves of plump, juicy olives; fields of golden wheat; vineyards laden with rich grapes and orchards full of luscious fruit. Tuscany’s wines are Italy’s most famous; its olives, beans, beef, cheese, polenta-  the best in the land. Panzanella

With such a wealth of ingredients, it’s hardly surprising that Tuscan food rates as among the best anywhere in Europe. Fresh, lightly cooked vegetables combine with grilled or baked meats, with pasta and fragrant olive oil; hearty soups are served with crusty bread; desserts consist of ripe fruit or a plain cake. And the entire meal is washed down with glassfuls of wine- Chianti or Brunello de Montalcino are best known.

For the travelling gourmet, by far the best option would be to go on a week-long walking tour of Tuscany, treating yourself to the best the village inns have to offer. If you don’t have the luxury of spending an entire week in Tuscany, just visit Florence- the city’s many trattorias and taverns will give you a good idea of what Tuscan food is all about!

Meanwhile, here’s a recipe to get you started:    

Panzanella

12 slices bread, preferably 1-2 days old
50 gm rocket leaves
50 gm endives
100 gm chicory leaves
1 green onion
Basil leaves
Wine vinegar, extra-virgin olive oil, salt 

Soak the bread in cold water for half an hour or so; squeeze well and reduce to breadcrumbs. Chop all the salad vegetables finely and toss well with dressing ingredients and bread. Allow the salad to chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour before serving.

For more information on Florence, click here.

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Lebanese, Beirut

Combine the warm, hearty flavours of the Arab countries with the fragrant olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and herbs of the Mediterranean, and what do you get? A cuisine so brilliant that it’s one of the main reasons why so many people come to Lebanon. True, Lebanon isn’t exactly lacking in tourist attractions; but the opportunities for feasting are so vast in this country that it’s worth a visit just to sample the food.

Like much of the other neighbouring countries, in Lebanon too meat or poultry, along with seafood, forms an important part of a meal- braised, skewered or grilled and flavoured with all the ingredients of the East - sesame seed oil, scallions, onions, nuts, chickpeas and fresh yoghurt. Succulent kebabs, creamy hummus and the roasted aubergine dip known as baba ghanoush are staples, as in the rest of the Middle East. Western-style pastry appears in the form of baklava, a rich sugary treat dripping with honey and nuts; and coffee is a must at any meal.

Tasty Lebanese food is available all over the country, but Beirut is probably the best place to go to sample all of it. The capital’s many restaurants and roadside food stalls churn out excellent food, and you could eat a truly satisfying meal for a very reasonable price.

Here’s a taste of what you can expect:

Baba Ghanoush

3 aubergines
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
3/4 cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
1 tbsp crushed garlic
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
Salt to taste
Baba Ganoush

Split the aubergines lengthwise, brush with half the oil and place cut-side down on a pan. Roast until the aubergines are soft. Allow to cool to room temperature, then scoop out the flesh of the aubergines with a spoon and discard the skins. Place the scooped flesh in a colander to drain, then blend in a food processor along with the lemon juice, tahini, garlic, salt, cayenne pepper, ground cumin and the remaining olive oil. Purée until the mixture is smooth and thick, and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.

For more information on Beirut, click here.

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Russian, St Petersburg and Moscow

If you’re one of those who always thought that the Russians, living in a cold and bleak land, must be surviving on potatoes and bland bread, here’s something to chew upon. For this country, once a part of the largest nation in the world, has a culinary tradition rich enough to stand its ground against any other cuisine of the world. Russia may be cold, its winters freezing; but summers bring a heart-warming selection of fresh fruit and vegetables; the country’s rivers and lakes swarm with fish; its forests yield excellent venison; and milk, rye and wheat are abundant. And all are used very judiciously and inventively in some brilliant dishes. 

The food of Russia lacks the spice of Asia or the zing of the Mediterranean, but it certainly does not lack flavour. Whatever is available- whether grain or vegetable or meat- is used to create a vast array of interesting, toothsome dishes. Carrots and cabbages are pickled for the long winters; potatoes are used in every conceivable form; and all through the year, meat (or fish) and an amazingly wide range of breads and pies are eaten. Salads, soups, roasts, and stews form the main part of a major meal- all of it washed down either with the potent vodka or the rough country beer known as kvass.

 Gourmet delicacies like caviar and blinis are probably Russia’s greatest exports to the rest of the world; but there are other equally tasty dishes too. The hearty beetroot soup known as borsch; veal stroganoff; the fish-rice-and-pastry pie called koulibiaca; and the delightfully creamy pashka, a Russian Easter pudding similar to a cheesecake.

The best food in Russia (as, perhaps, anywhere in the world!) is to be found in homes- but, if you can’t manage that, try the restaurants in St Petersburg and Moscow. Both cities have plenty of eateries around which serve up excellent Russian grub.  For a taste of what you can  expect, try cooking this up:

Potato Nalysnyky

4 large raw potatoes, grated
4 tbsp flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
2 eggs
1/2 tsp salt
Oil
Potato Nalysnyky

Grate potatoes, and squeeze to drain off excess liquid. Add the rest of the ingredients, except oil and mix well. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and heap tablespoonsful of the mixture in the oil. Spread the batter out a little with the back of a spoon, and fry until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve with whipped sour cream.

For more information on St. Petersburg, click here and for Moscow, click here.

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Brazilian, Brasilia

South America. That beautiful, exotic land, home to dense rainforests and towering mountains; Inca ruins and the mythical El Dorado; birthplace of great revolutionaries and brilliant footballers- and the place to sample one of this continent’s best kept secrets: a glorious cuisine with some of the most unusual ingredients you’re likely to encounter.

And Brazil is easily one of the hotspots when it comes to tasty food. Based on a combination of cassava, meats, fish and vegetables- especially peppers, tomatoes, beans, peanuts and tubers- Brazilian cuisine uses three main flavourings to lend a bit of excitement to a dish: the first is coconut milk, the second a fiery red pepper known as malagueta; and the third- the one which really lends Brazilian food a taste all its own- is the aromatic palm oil called dende.

Brazilian food draws inspiration from three main culinary traditions: that of the native South Americans; that of the African slaves who were brought here; and that of the Portuguese, who colonized the land, bringing with them a taste for eggs and sugar and rich baked desserts. What you get to sample today is a delectable mélange of dishes, with an astonishing range of flavours- from peppers and coconut milk to pastries and hearts of palm. 

In all of Brazil’s bigger cities and towns, you’ll find restaurants and lanchonetes (snack bars) which serve a mouthwatering spread; but the national capital, Brasilia, is probably the best place to go. Head for one of Brasilia’s many eateries to indulge in delights such as feijoada (a hearty mixed stew), peixe na talha (grilled fish) and coxinhas, a breaded appetizer.

Interested? Try this for starters…

Quindins

3/4 cup sugar
1 cup grated coconut
1 tbsp butter
5 egg yolks
1 egg white, beaten into stiff peaks
Quindins

In a large bowl, mix the sugar, coconut and butter, and add the egg yolks, one at a time, mixing well between additions. Add the egg white and mix. Distribute the mixture among 12 greased muffin tins. Place the muffin tins in a bain marie, in an oven set at 180ºC, and bake until golden brown (30-40 minutes).

For more information on Brasilia, click here.

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Tahitian Earth Bake, French Polynesia

The Pacific islanders are obsessed with freshness. They'd rather wake up at the crack of dawn to catch the day's meal from the surrounding blue waters, get the bananas fresh off the trees and then spend 6 hours waiting for the fish to bake than get into a car, find a supermarket and bung the results of that into a microwave. Chances are you're thinking along the lines of 'ohmygawd! in this day and age…' See how far we've come from our food supply chain?

All over the Polynesian islands coconuts, plantain, pineapple, mangoes, pawpaws, melons, limes, sweet potatoes, tapioca and taro burst through the soil in a rich and variant smorgasbord. In the waters there are more than 300 species of fish including such favourites as the ape'i, the ume, the tarao and roi, which are cooked with meats, fruits and vegetables in the ahima'a.

The ahima'a is the traditional natural oven used all over the Pacific Islands. These are 3m x 2m x 80cm pits in the earth: the bottom is lined with dried wood and volcanic rocks. This is then fired and everyone drinks about three cocktails while the volcanic rocks get red hot. The cocktails mustn't be too potent or the next step is sure to get botched - once the rocks are visibly hot, two layers of banana leaves must be placed on top of them. On these leaves come the food items, which are then sealed into the oven with more layers of banana leaves, moist bags or sand. Play merry hell or catch a nap while everything takes it's while getting to its succulent best. The cooking takes between three and four hours. The food is served fresh out of the oven with wine or water.

For those who don't have the luxury of lavishing 3 hours on one meal, here is a quicker version with guaranteed can't-tell-the difference results:

Polynesian Style Chops

6 pork chops, 3/4 inch thick
1 can (20 oz.) pineapple slices
1/2-cup honey
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
Pork Chop

Preheat grill. Place chops under grill, 4-5 inches from heat and let it cook for 8 minutes. Turn chops and grill the other side for 6 minutes. Meanwhile, drain pineapple slices, saving 2 tablespoons of juice. Combine pineapple juice with honey, soy sauce and ginger. Place 1 slice pineapple on each chop. Grill for 5-8 minutes, basting frequently with Honey-Ginger mix. Spoon the remaining honey mix over chops before serving on a bed of rice.

For more information on French Polynesia, click here.

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Moroccan,Fes 

A traditional meal in Morocco, whether it's a quiet dinner at home with the family, or a high-profile diffa- the groaning-table brand of feast so popular in the country- begins with a word of thanksgiving to the Almighty: "Bismillah." And with good reason too: the Moroccans have plenty to thank God for. A fertile land, which produces a mouthwatering array of fruit and vegetable; coastal waters rich in seafood; and yes- even invaders who've helped contribute to one of the best cuisines anywhere on earth.

Moroccan cuisine offers a splendid spread of flavours, colours and textures for the devoted foodie. A tastebud-teasing blend of Arabic, Mediterranean and French influences, this is one cuisine that's bound to grab your fancy. The basics, for the yet-uninitiated, are couscous (a steamed semolina dish without which a Moroccan meal is incomplete); plenty of fresh fruit and vegetable; lamb, poultry and seafood; breads, and dry fruit. To add more flavour, preserved lemons, harissa (a hot, chilli-based paste), and a medley of spices, from the mild to the fiery, the warm to the hot- are used. Grills, stews, soups, salads, heavy pastries drenched in honey and bursting with almonds- all appear on the menu. Among the must-sample dishes are the fabulous tagines, spicy stews of chicken or lamb; bisteeyas, delicate pastry stuffed with a spiced mixture of shredded meat; kebabs and keftas; and the ubiquitous couscous- all of it washed down with refreshing glassfuls of mint tea.

As almost everywhere else on this planet, the best food in Morocco too is the type you'll find in homes. If you can't wangle an invitation from a local family, head for the many restaurants in Fes, the universally acknowledged culinary capital of Morocco. But until your trip to Fes materialises, here's something to keep you occupied:

Lamb M'Hammer

2.5 kg lamb, cubed
2 onions, chopped
1 head of garlic, chopped
5 tbsp paprika
1 tbsp cumin
1 tbsp black pepper
1 cup olive oil, preferably virgin
Salt, to taste
moroccan cuisine

Heat the olive oil in a pan; when it's hot, bung in the onion, garlic and lamb, along with the paprika, cumin, black pepper and salt. Add about 5 cups of water, cover and allow to cook on high heat till the lamb's tender- about 45 minutes. When that's done, transfer the lamb and its sauce to an ovenproof dish and into the oven. Bake for a further 10 minutes, basting frequently. Serve hot, garnished with mint leaves and fried blanched almonds.

For more information on Fes, click here.

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