MOUNTAIN ESCAPES
| Kalpa guide |
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The Kinner-Kailash range of Himachal Pradesh
is silhouetted against the lovely town of Kalpa, the ancient capital of the Kinners of
Kinnaur. Kalpa was the headquarters of the Kinnaur region till the town of Rekong Peo
donned the mantle. In ancient Hindu mythology, the Kinners were birdlike men akin to Gods
- midway between man and God. Kinnaur is a land like no other, a realm as strikingly
varied as the landscape you will encounter on the way. Much of the excitement of visiting
Kalpa lies in the adventurous journey to get here. The scenery changes dramatically from
gorgeous valleys, green orchards and forests of cedar, chilgoza-pine and bhojpatra trees,
to the starkness of the mountains, high altitude deserts and stunning gorges. |
The rugged mountains rise up dramatically
from the riverbanks. The Sutlej carves a deep chasm through the Great Himalayas as it
rages through Kinnaur, to meet the quiet Baspa at Karcham. This is one of the most
breathtakingly vertiginous drives you will face. The road to Kalpa is literally carved
through the rock face with a sheer drop down to the turbulent Sutlej. Once you reach the
town of Kalpa, you are rewarded by the most fantastic views of the Kinner-Kailash,
of the 70 m Shivling that juts out of the peak and the striking sunrises and sunsets that
light up the mountains.Besides the fantastic scenery and drives, set aside some energetic
moments for mountain-biking, mountain-cycling, jeep safaris, trout fishing in the Baspa,
star-gazing, camping, hiking, trekking and river rafting adventures. Privately organized
adventure camps are mushrooming in Kalpa and around Kinnaur's valleys, to cater to the
audacious.
The villages near Kalpa are abuzz with friendly folk who won't let you pass their homes
without an invitation for a cup of tea and a chat. Hindu temples, Buddhist monasteries and
gompas stick out like Christmas decorations on the mountain slopes around Kalpa. The
architectural style is a happy fusion and you are left marvelling at how two cultures,
Hindu and Buddhist, blend harmoniously in this land, making it impossible to tell where
one stops and the other begins.Getting
to Kalpa
Kalpa is 616 km from Delhi and 250 km from Shimla. The best way to get to Kalpa is to
first reach Shimla - by road, or train (till Kalka), or air (Chandigarh is the closest
airport) - and then travel to Kalpa by road. From Shimla, taxis or jeeps can be hired and
a bus service is available for Rekong Peo, 14 km from Kalpa, a journey of about 11 hours.
This is a demanding drive and rugged vehicles are suggested. Direct buses are also
available from Delhi to Rekong Peo. If driving in from Delhi, it's convenient to break
journey at Shimla or Narkanda. The route you will take is
Delhi-Chandigarh-Shimla-Narkanda-Rampur-Karcham-Powari-Rekong Peo-Kalpa on NH22.
Best time to visit Kalpa
The months of April till October are delightful in Kalpa, although one should try to avoid
travelling here during the monsoons because the roads en route are bad and prone to
landslides. The climate is cool but variable, so carry warm clothes and rain protection.
It snows heavily in winter and there is a possibility of avalanches.
Accommodation in Kalpa
You have the option of staying in luxury at the Circuit House (with permits) or in
Himachal tourism camps and privately organized deluxe tents. A few cottages, hotels and
the odd farmhouse are also available in Kalpa. |
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