Sneak Preview

From as long as memory recalls, Arabia has seduced travelers and storytellers with its mystery, its magic, its romance and because of its inaccessibility. Many have come here to understand the Bedouin, to share his tent and to sit by his fire under a starry sky - to experience life in the desert in all its simplicity and with all its complexities. Whirlwinds of sand, rhythmic thunder of hooves and rising clouds of dust draw closer and give way to reveal fast riding, hawk eyed Bedouins - the long time denizens of this most inhospitable of deserts, the mysterious Arabia of a thousand nights.

Petrodollars have transformed a nation of militant clans into financial fatcats, oil billionaires and limousine riding sheikhs. The Bedouin who rode the wind now holds the reins of the global economy. But despite its wealth and its apparent modernisation, Saudi Arabia remains a conservative Arab/Muslim country, where you have to watch the ps and qs of your behaviour and follow the Islamic code of conduct.

The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is the largest country in the Middle East and occupies about four-fifths of the Arabian Peninsula. It stands at the crossroads of three continents: Europe, Asia and Africa. It holds an important place in the religious map of the world as the cradle of Islam, the world's second largest religion. Mecca and Madina, Islam's holiest shrines, are in Saudi Arabia. Uncountable pilgrims make their way into this country from all over the world. Many rules and regulations hassle a non-Muslim in obtaining a visa. But perseverance pays, and once you manage to get inside (legally of course), you will find innumerable attractions and the chance to see modernity in tandem with tradition.

Saudi Arabia’s holy city, Al Madinah is also known as the city of date palms because they line Madinah's streets and highways in profusion.

Saudi Arabia is the world's largest producer of desalinated water: thirty-three plants produce nearly two million cubic meters of fresh water from the sea.

Historically Speaking

The history of present day Saudi Arabia was the history of the coastal regions till the 18th century. The earliest settlements in eastern Arabia were during the 4th and 5th millennium BC. Among the western Arabian kingdoms, the Nabataean Kingdom was famous in ancient times.

In early 18th century, the royal family of modern Saudi Arabia, the "Al Saud", ruled as Sheikhs in the oasis village of Dir’aiyah near modern Riyadh. The alliance in 1744, between Mohammed bin Saud the ruler of Dir’aiyah, and Mohammed bin Abdul Wahhab, a preacher who followed a strict and simple form of Islam, led to the establishment of the Saudi Arabian Empire. Wahhab’s followers came to be known as Wahhabis, and "Wahhabism" is the official religion of Saudi Arabia.

Mohammed bin Abdul Wahhab’s religious zeal and Mohammed bin Saud’s military skill led to the conversion of most of the tribes of Najd. By 1806, the Saudi forces controlled most of present day Saudi Arabia as well as big chunks of present southern Iraq. The Turks viewed the growing power of Saudi Arabia as a threat and defeated and expelled the Saudis from Hejaz (western Arabia) in 1812 and annexed Dir’aiyah.

In 1891, a rival clan Al-Rashid expelled the Al Sauds from Najd, who fled to the Empty Quarter and then to Kuwait, where the ruling Sheikh gave them shelter. The Saudi ruler, Abdul Aziz bin Abdul Rahman al Saud (known as Ibn Saud) grew up in Kuwait. Ibn Saud was deeply religious and pious, but also an excellent military strategist and diplomat. He recaptured Riyadh from the Al- Rashids by 1925, and the kingdom of Jeddah consequently surrendered to him.

In May 1933 after oil had been discovered in Bahrain, Ibn Suad granted oil concessions to an American firm. But oil production really started after World War II and by 1950 Saudi Arabia was earning US $ 1 million per week. By 1960, 81 % of Saudi Arabia’s revenue came from oil.

1960 to 1964 saw the rise and fall of the profligate Saud, who was forced to surrender his powers to his younger brother Prince Faisal in November 1964, who was a foreign minister in his regime. Faisal modernized Saudi Arabia’s administration and also tried to reorganize Saudi Arabian finances.

During the Arab Israeli War in 1967, Saudi Arabia joined the embargo against the USA and UK. Oil prices shot up and Saudi Arabia became very rich and powerful. From 1973 to ‘78, the annual revenue increased from US $4.35 billion to US $36 billion. This wealth was used for the establishment of the petro- chemical industry.

Faisal was assassinated and succeeded by his half brother Khalid, and Fahd was crown prince. During Khalid’s reign (1975-82), Riyadh and Jeddah grew astoundingly in size and importance. Khalid was succeeded by his half brother Fahd in 1982.

Relations with Iran soured during the Islamic Revolution in 1979. In 1987, some Iranian pilgrims were killed in a demonstration in Mecca, and the Iranians boycotted the traditional Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca for several years.

Iraq invaded Kuwait in 1990, and Saudi Arabia asked for US protection fearing that it would be the larger target. About 500,000 foreign troops were stationed in Saudi Arabia, and democratic ideas and principles spread all over the country. Saudi Arabia’s neighbours too began gingerly exploring democratic ideas. It was only in 1993 that Saudi Arabia set up a Consultative Council to help increase people-participation in government and decision-making. The Saudi government is still very close-minded about allowing democracy, in its full sense, to pervade the country. In 1995 when Fahd fell ill, his half brother Abdullah took over the government to hand it back when the king was well again.

While the rest of the world has entered 21st century, it is still medieval times in Saudi Arabia, where modernity works only in certain fields but not in freedom of thought, action and speech.

Habitat

Most of Saudi Arabia is a desert. A long mountain chain runs the entire length of the Eastern Saudi Arabia, gradually becoming higher as it reaches south towards Yemen. Almost half of the country comprises of the Rub’al-Khali, or the Empty Quarter, which is the largest sand desert in the world. Most of the central and northern region of Saudi Arabia is a gravelly desert plain. To the north west of Saudi Arabia lies Nafud, Arabia’s second greatest sand desert that is linked to the Empty Quarter. The Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia is a low-lying area that has a number of sabkhas (salt flats). Its main geographical feature is the vast Al-Hasa oasis, in the midst of which lies the town of Hofuf.

Desert scrub and tamarind trees grow in the country. After the winter rains, plants such as desert chamomile, scarlet pimpernel, heliotrope and wild iris are a common sight in the desert. In the forested areas of Asir, various evergreens grow.

Despite the bareness, there is considerable life in the desert, especially after the winter rains. Small animals such as lizards, porcupines, hedgehogs and rabbits can be seen. Wild baboons are found in the Asir region. Of course, the "ship of the desert" is visible in plenty.