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People & Language
The language spoken by most in Nepal is Nepali. The script is Devanagari, the same as for Hindi. Derived from Sanskrit, Nepali is actually fairly close to many north Indian languages. In the higher reaches of the Himalayas the language resembles Tibetan, close to the Indian border Maithili and Bhojpuri. Enough people, specially in the major towns and cities speak English and you shouldn’t have a problem if that’s the language you are comfortable in.
Nepal has a long-standing feudal tradition with the priestly class of Brahmins and the warrior class of Chhetris dominating the caste-based hierarchy. Nepalese also divide themselves into Paharis, Madeshis and Bhotias: hill people, plains folk and those from the northern border respectively. The sure-footed Sherpas and Tamangs live a largely nomadic life in the upper Himalayas. Madeshis are largely of Tibetan-Burmese origin including groups such as the Rais, Limbus, Jirels, Gurungs, Thapalis and Chepangs. The plains-settlers are mostly Indo-Aryan groups like the Tharus, Rajputs, Rajvashis, Dhimlas and Dhangars. Across communities males dominate and male life expectancy is, not surprisingly, higher.
The Newaris, who make up about 4% of the population, are thought to be among the earliest inhabitants of this mountain country. They practice a synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism and Tibetan influences can be seen in their language and art. Newari cuisine and art stands apart from the others. Strong flavours, heavy spice and buffalo meat figure prominently on the table. Newari wall hangings called Paubha paintings are simpler versions of the Tibetan Thanka.
For a long time the inhabitants of the terai, tribes such as the Tharus, Safars, Yadavs, Rajvanshis and Dhimlas and the resident fauna, were protected by marauding hordes of malarial mosquitoes. With the coming of the road (east-west highway), quinine and insect repellent, the terai is now accessible like never before. With the coming of airplanes and canned oxygen, so too are the great Himalayas. Consequently all of Nepal, people, animals, and the land alike, is dealing with the angst of ‘development’.
There is a sizeable population of Indians and Tibetans in Nepal too. In many cases, they settled generations ago and are now indistinguishable from the indigenous people.
The Nepalese value age: elders are at all times treated with great respect. The Nepalese value guests too: guests are next only to God. Is it any wonder then that those who come once come again, only to return yet again, having fallen in love with this rugged, remote, romantic land and the people in it?
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Religion
The only Hindu state in the world has made an admirable success of keeping all its resident religions happy. 90% Hindu, 5% Buddhist, 3% Muslim is the account for the major religions in Nepal. The real picture is not nearly as clear-cut as that. Most Nepalese people follow a mix of the Hindu and Buddhist religion, having reconciled the multitudinous pantheon of gods of one with the deity less-ness of the other; having reconciled the philosophy of ahimsa of one, whereby no other living creature is hurt, with the ritual animal sacrifice of the other.
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Food
Chalked up on dilapidated blackboards across the length and breadth of the country, "dal-bhat-tarkari" will greet you all across Nepal. You could be forgiven for thinking that the watery lentil soup sloshed on to grains of coarse rice, with vegetables on the side is as imaginative as local cuisine got. Think again! Nepal’s food is getting better and better. Old recipes that use delicate herbs have been dusted out and are now showing up as delicious dishes across tables. Mushrooms, chicken, mutton (goat) and fresh water fish are relished and often cooked well in private kitchens. (Do not expect the same at the makeshift stall that passes for a small restaurant.) Potato ‘chutneys’, spicy side-items are also important to the whole meal. Momos, the Tibetan dumplings that are usually had steamed, are popular snacks. Since the cow is sacred to Hindus, beef is banned. Instead you get "buff", a tough substitute, but bovine meat here is buffalo!
Hot sweet ‘chiya’ is tea and here it’s streets ahead of coffee on the popularity chart. The Nepalese love their drink: alcohol, usually beer, is available equally freely at department stores in cities and at nondescript wayside eating shacks along the highway. Local spirits are the potent home-brewed ‘chang’ and it’s fiery stronger cousin, ‘raksi’.
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Culture & Crafts
Templescape and thanka drapes, ‘maadal’ beats and sacred idols on street-side seats, folk plugs into pop, and the divine dominates all! Prayer flags fluttering in hillside breeze, bronze idols gleaming in the countryside sun, and the ‘gaine’ singing to ‘saranghi’ strains. Processional singing fills the air at weddings and festivals. Rustic earthy tunes emanate from drums and wooden wind instruments. The Nepalese love singing and evenings see them grouped together, singing tales of love, loss, beauty and laughter. Both classical and folk dance are devotional. The classical form is Newari and involves special costumes, fancy masks, elaborate hairdos, intense communication with god, stylised hand gestures and footwork; it is performed on Dasain in Bhaktapur. Famous Nepalese crafts are the beautiful fabric wall hangings. Still painted by hand in vibrant colours, Tibetan thanka and Newari Paubha paintings are originally sacred scrolls. To have any religious value, a lama must consecrate them.
The pagoda roof made so famous by Japanese tapestry on foreign walls was born here. The best sample is the 5-tiered one at Bhaktapur. It swoops down in delightful curves and sweeps up, each tier tucked into the one above. In the durbar squares in the valley, ornate metal bells still invoke the gods in centuries old deep dark wooden temples. The bells are still cast in Patan and the erotic carvings on the temples were carved centuries ago by Nepali artisans.
Pâpier mâché masks of wide mouthed demons, wide brimmed caps of hand woven jute, ayurvedic goodness stuffed into miniature pillows that bring different things to different folks from sweet dreams to inner balance. Equally lovely and a trifle more deadly are leather encased kukris. Some have ornate blades and some handles carved out of horn. But all have slicing sharpness. You don’t grasp this piece of craft, but gingerly clasp it always making sure that your fingers are tucked along the side of the case so if the blade pierces the ‘leather’ it does so only to the case and not you.
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