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Language
The hills of Uttarakhand are inhabited by a number of different ethnic groups, mostly fairly heterogeneous- at least at first glance- but with distinctive traditions and customs of their own. The bulk of the population is rural and lives in villages which look as if they were caught in a time-warp ancient temples, slate-roofed houses, terraced fields and traditional costumes included. Among the prominent ethnic groups of the state are the Bhotias, the Jaunsaries, the Tharus, the Bokshas and the Rajis. In the lowlands of Uttarakhand is a sprinkling of Sikh migrants from West Punjab, and in the upper tracts of the mountains live the Van Gujars, a nomadic tribe of Muslims whose main occupation is animal husbandry. Polygamy, bigamy and child marriages have virtually disappeared from urban and literate areas, but are still prevalent in less accessible parts of Uttarakhand.
The languages of Uttarakhand are akin to Hindi, although they fall into a separate group known as `Pahari’. Pahari has its origins in Sanskrit, Sauraseni Prakrit and Nepali, and has been further influenced by the languages of neighbouring Himachal Pradesh. Pahari has a number of dialects, spoken mainly in localised areas; Jaunsari, for instance, is spoken in the Jaunsari-Bhabar area and its surrounding tracts; Jadhi is spoken in parts of Uttarkashi district, and Sailani is the lingua franca in parts of Tehri Garhwal.
In most places, Hindi is also used, and in larger or more touristy places you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding someone who understands English.
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Religion
Religion is big business in Uttarakhand, not just because it's one of the important attractions for domestic tourists, but also because it's a vital part of daily life for the people of these hills. Large segment of the people in Uttarakhand, especially in the upper reaches, are heterodox Buddhists and Hindus. This is the area which has been known as `Dev Bhoomi'- the land of the gods. Many of Hinduism's most important shrines lie within Uttarakhand, tucked away in the mountains and along the rivers of the state. Amongst these, the most sacred are the `Char Dham'- the four shrines of Gangotri, Yamunotri, Badrinath and Kedarnath, a pilgrimage of which is supposed to ensure instant salvation.
The sacred Ganga, on its foaming path down to the plains, meets its tributaries at what are called the Panch Prayag- the five sacred `sangams' of the river at Vishnuprayag, Nandprayag, Karnaprayag, Rudraprayag and Devprayag. And that's not all; Hardwar and Rishikesh are two of Hinduism's most prominent destinations for pilgrims, while the historical Gurudwara of Hemkund Sahib, near the Valley of Flowers, is an important shrine for Sikh pilgrims.
At any time, in any season, Uttarakhand's many shrines swarm with pious devotes, coming en famille from across the country, and beyond, to worship. All along the Ganga and its tributaries are ashrams, ghats, temples and shrines by the dozen, and even the smallest village will be dominated by its own temple.
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Food
Food habits vary across the length and breadth of Uttarakhand, and are governed largely by the accessibility of the area concerned. Higher villages rarely have access to fresh vegetables and fruit, so meat- often sundried- is an important constituent of the diet, along with plenty of locally brewed liquor to ward off the winter chills. Coarse, local grains such as mandua and barley are consumed more than wheat or rice, both of which are scarce. In the lower hills, vegetables and lowland grains like wheat, rice and lentils are consumed more commonly; the incidence of vegetarianism is also much higher than in the colder parts of the state. The use of dairy products is fairly limited, and you’ll usually see it only in the endless glasses of tea which make up a normal day in the life of a Pahari villager.
Food is often cooked in pure ghee- where it can be afforded- and is high in hot spices such as red chillies. Popular dishes include chainsoo (a dish of black gram dal), ras (a mixture of dals), jholi (a thick gravy with potatoes, tomatoes and other vegetables), kafuli (a spinach dish), and local breads such as chapattis, mandua ki roti and gahat ke paranthe. Chutneys made from sesame seeds, hemp seeds and other local ingredients help perk up meals. Popular sweets include the famous baal mithai of Almora, studded with tiny globules of sugar and made from milk cooked till it’s brown and semi-solid; and singhodi, made from desiccated coconut and khoya, and wrapped in a fragrant leaf.
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Culture and Crafts
The `Hindi film-bhangra pop-chhola bhatura' ethos which has permeated much of northern India is present in Uttarakhand's cities and towns too, but not as much as in some other states. And in the villages and smaller towns, Garhwali and Kumaoni culture haven't succumbed to the onslaught of the mundane. Here, for instance, daily meals often use the same ingredients and the same cooking styles which have been used for centuries; age-old religious rites and rituals are followed; and wandering folk singers and dancers still provide some of the most wholesome entertainment around. Dances like the Langvir Nritya, Dhurang, Pandav Nritya, Chholiya, Hurka Baul and Jharva are popular, particularly during fairs and festivals. These dances are usually accompanied by folksy tunes performed on local instruments like the murli (a flute), the dhol and the hurka, both traditional drums.
Both Kumaon and Garhwal are a rich repository of traditional literature. Originally in the form of lyrical ballads and folklore chanted by itinerant singers, the tales of this region are now considered part of Hindi literature's best works.
Among the prominent local crafts is wood carving, which appears most frequently in the ornately decorated temples of Uttarakhand. Intricately carved designs- of floral patterns, deities and geometrical motifs- also decorate the doors, windows, ceilings and walls of village houses. Beautifully worked paintings and murals are used to decorate both homes as well as temples. Kumaoni art often is geometrical in nature, while Garhwali art has long been known for its closeness to the Mughal style of painting- a style which was introduced centuries ago and became very popular. Other crafts of Uttarakhand include handcrafted jewellery- usually of gold; basketry from Garhwal; woollen shawls and scarves and rugs. The latter are mainly produced by the Bhotias of northern Uttarakhand.
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