History
Spiti’s still an undeveloped area- with few facilities outside the main town, Kaza- but its unspoilt beauty is such that not too many trekkers complain. Walk along the Spiti river; trek up to one of the thirty-odd Buddhist monasteries or labour up to one of the villages which cling to the mountainsides: Spiti is undeniably beautiful, whether you’re looking for panoramic views, quiet old monasteries, or friendly villages.
TREKKING ROUTES
1.Kaza-Langza-Hikim-Comic-Kaza: Start the trek from Kaza, the administrative centre of the Spiti Valley- and about the only place in the region which offers a selection, although limited, of accommodation and dining facilities. From Kaza, head for Langza, at a distance of eight and a half km. The area’s known for the wealth of fossils all around, but for the sake of Spiti’s natural heritage, please don’t pick up any- it’s illegal, anyway.
From Langza, follow the track up to the Buddhist monastery of Hikim. Hikim Gompa, built under the patronage of the Mongols, is modelled on a Chinese palace and is an unusual bit of architecture. From Hikim, walk on, to the rather amusingly named village of Comic, a further eight km from Hikim. The track to Comic is a circuitous one, and you don’t need to return to Kaza via Hikim or Langza- just follow the straight road back to Kaza, which is only about six km.
2.Kaza-Ki-Kibber-Gete-Kaza: One of the shorter, but immensely interesting, treks in the vicinity of Kaza. All three places on the route- Ki, Gete and Kibber- lie to the north of Kaza, with Ki being a mere 11 km from Kaza. Ki is one of the largest, oldest and most important Buddhist monasteries in Spiti, and celebrated a thousand years of its existence in 2000, when the Dalai Lama performed a prestigious rite known as the kalachakra ceremony at the monastery. Home to about 300 monks, the Ki gompa has a noteworthy collection of traditional religious paintings (thangkas) and scriptures. At the monastery is a small guesthouse, and there are facilities for camping.
Spend the night at Ki, then head for Kibber, 19 km from Kaza and one of the highest villages in the world. Kibber boasts of a small bank, a village and a post office, but the village of Gete, which claims to be the highest village in the world, is not quite so fortunate. Gete’s at a height of close to 16,000 ft, and is approachable only on foot. From Gete, trek back to Kibber, where you can camp for the night before heading back to Kaza.
3.Kaza-Losar-Kunzum La: A westward trek from Kaza, the expedition to Kunzum La can be a very rewarding one, especially as it passes through some of Spiti’s most scenic areas. Heading west from Kaza, go towards Losar, the last village in Spiti- beyond it lies the Lahaul Valley. Losar, 55 km from Kaza, lies in an area which is starkly different from much of Spiti- instead of barren mountains and arid desert, you’ll see apple orchards, poplar, willow and fields of vegetables. On the trail to Losar,you can camp en route; there are a number of places along the way which are suitable for pitching a tent. When you reach Losar, you can stop for the night at the local PWD resthouse, before continuing, the next day, to Kunzum La, 18 km further to the west.
Kunzum La-`The Meeting place for the Ibex’- doesn’t harbour
ibex any more, but it’s still important. It’s the pass which links Spiti to Lahaul, and, at a height of 16,000 ft, commands a magnificent view of the surrounding area. From Kunzum La, you have the option of either heading back to Kaza, or, if you’ve got a permit to enter Lahaul, you can cross the pass and go to Batal, in Lahaul.
4.Kaza-Tabo-Sumdo-Nako: From Kaza, head east along the Spiti river to Tabo, 47 km from Kaza. Tabo is one of Spiti’s largest settlements and the site of a prominent Buddhist monastery. The Tabo gompa, which is more than a thousand years old, has a fine collection of priceless old thangkas and religious manuscripts which are worth seeing. The town also has a small government-owned resthouse, and a few private guesthouses, where accommodation is available for the night. From Tabo, take the trail onwards to Sumdo, on the border between Spiti and Kinnaur. Sumdo lies only about 20 km from the Chinese border, and recent efforts at afforestation have helped make the area a refreshingly verdant one.
Further on, in the district of Kinnaur, lies one of Himachal’s highest and prettiest villages, Nako. Nako, besides being a beautiful place, is also reputed to be the final resting place of Padmasambhava, the first disciple of the Buddha to visit Tibet. Situated at the edge of a picturesque lake, Nako has little to offer in the way of accommodation, although you’re welcome to pitch a tent on the outskirts of the
settlement.
ACCOMMODATION:
Kaza, Losar and Tabo boast of PWD resthouses, and some of the larger- and more touristy- towns may have the odd privately-owned guesthouse or two, but don’t count on it. Even in resthouses, accommodation will be very basic, and you’d better be prepared to rough it out. Anyway, once you’ve left Kaza, you’ll probably end up sleeping in a tent pitched in a convenient valley.
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