Cambodia

People & Language

The bulk of the population of Cambodia- close to around 90-95%- are ethnic Khmers, although there are minorities consisting of hill tribes, ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese. A large percentage of the population is rural, and makes a subsistence living through agriculture. Whatever urban population there is, is concentrated in two main areas: the capital city of Phnom Penh and the province of Battambang.

Most Cambodians, especially in rural areas, are not very used to Westerners- and in many places you might even face open hostility. One-way of making sure you don’t step on any toes is to be polite, and to keep in mind the social norms and conventions which usually govern interactions between Cambodians. Always remember to keep your cool- as in much of this part of the world, losing your temper, no matter how great the provocation, is considered a sign of boorishness. Many Cambodians are touchy about privacy, so always take care not to appear intrusive; it also helps to ask before taking any photographs.

The official language of Cambodia is Khmer, which is also the language used by most people- including those

who are not ethnic Khmers. Khmer, as a language, has its roots in the ancient Indian languages of Pali and Sanskrit. Over the years, thanks to Cambodia’s increasing interaction with other countries- and especially with its former colonial masters - Khmer has come to include a number of foreign words. These are mainly words borrowed from Chinese, French and English, and are usually those related to technology, business, commerce, and (of all things!) food. Other than Khmer, Vietnamese, hill tribe languages, other native dialects, French and English are also used in the country.

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Religion

Cambodians are predominantly Buddhists; the particular sect, or stream, of Buddhism which is practised in the country is Therawada Buddhism. About 95% of the population are devout Buddhists, and you’ll find ample evidence of it all over the country- there are numerous wats (temples) in virtually every settlement, no matter how small, and these are usually not just religious places, but centres of social life.

Wats were the main centre for education (traditional studies- basically of a religious nature) and double as the community centre, the local hospital, the hostel and the employment exchange depending on the requirement. In more modern times, wats are not as important as they once were, but they’re still significant as centres of social life.

Some small minority communities practise Islam, Christianity and animism.

Food

As in most of South East Asia, so in Cambodia too, the staple food is rice. Along with rice, a lot of fish- mainly freshwater- (the water bodies of the country are rich in fish), and salads are popular dishes. Fish, beef, pork and poultry are popular ingredients spiced with a fascinating array of herbs, spices and sauces. Most Cambodian meals consist of a soup, and always include a lot of vegetables.

The spices used are typically 'Oriental’ ones- mint, lemon grass, coriander and fish sauce. Interestingly enough, Cambodia’s 'French Connection’ has influenced local cuisine to quite an extent: you’ll find distinct French dishes like frog’s legs and French bread in the country too. Some though, have been adapted to suit local palates, making them interesting variations on the original.

Culture & Crafts

Cambodia has a rich and old cultural legacy, though it has suffered badly in the past twenty-odd years, when the barbarism and terror of the Khmer regime has inflicted terrible damage on the country as a whole. Perhaps the luckiest survivor of the civil war was the amazing temple complex of Angkor Wat, a brilliant example of Khmer architecture and sculpture at its finest. There are other examples, of course- most of them can be seen in the museums in Phnom Penh, and many forms of art still survive. Scour the markets, and you’ll find exquisite jewellery, beautifully woven cloth, woodwork, papier maché and silverware- all made with an innate aesthetic sensibility.

Of course, handicrafts are not the only expression of Cambodian culture- you’ll also see it in the grace of native dances that are accompanied by chants and music. You’ll see it in the carefully prepared food, rich with herbs and spices, at even the poorest of roadside stalls; and you’ll see it in the exuberance with which festivals like the Khmer New Year (Chaul Chnam) are celebrated. Yes, Cambodian culture may have suffered because of the war in the country,

but it isn’t dead- and it’s on the road to recovery.

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