TRAVEL GUIDE

Making tracks

Murud is 165 km from Mumbai by road, a journey of about 5 hours. ST buses operate from Mumbai Central to Murud's Durbar Road. Trains will get you as far as Roha and Panvel from where you can take a bus to Murud. But the most convenient way to get here is by ferry from Mazgaon's Ferry Wharf, to Rewas, 23 km from Murud; or by catamaran from Gateway to Mandwa.

Best time to go

Murud has a coastal climate and can be visited at any time of the year, avoiding the monsoons. Carry plenty of sun-protection and light cotton clothes.

Room with a view

MTDC has simple cottages and rooms near the beach. You can also stay with residents who have rooms and shacks on rent. Food is available at the MTDC resort, stalls on the beach and at shacks in the village. For further information contact MTDC, Nariman Point Tel: 022 - 2024482.

 

Invincible fortress

From Mumbai

Janjira, near Murud, is amongst the more hardy forts that the Konkan coast is gilded with. The Arabian Sea crashes relentlessly all around the fort, which lies 2 km into the ocean at Murud, a village in Maharashtra's Raigad district. Murud was the 15-16th century capital of the Siddis of Janjira. This indomitable fortress inspired the Maratha chieftain Shivaji to launch several attacks, but the fort remained unconquerable to the last.

Murud is a peaceful fishing village with a pretty seashore and a helter-skelter of wooden cottages. It is a quiet little getaway that basks in the Konkan sunshine. The beach is edged with swaying betel palms, coconut fronds and groves of casuarinas. A temple dedicated to Dattatreya occupies prime position on a hillock, from where you can get a commanding view of the entire bay. Dominating the landscape is the palace of the Siddhi Nawabs, the Janjira fort and the Janjira caves.

The Janjira fort, built in the mid-16th century, was originally a wooden fortress built by the Murud fishermen to protect their village from pirates. Burankhan, the minister of the ruler of Ahmednagar, Nizamshah, later demolished the fortress and built an impregnable stone fort in its place. Janjira fort had a number of towers and turrets where huge guns and cannons were kept in perpetual readiness to ward off enemies. Shivaji, Sambhaji and the Peshwas tried, in turn, to take over the fort, but the Marathas, British or Portuguese could never capture Janjira.

Much of Janjira fort has been corroded and washed away after centuries of battering by the ocean. What remains is a brooding structure overlooking a lovely beach where you can spend many a happy hour swimming and sunbathing in solitude. You can also relax at the unspoiled beaches of Nandgaon and Kashid, or visit the Padmadurg fortress nearby.

The beaches and village have a number of informal restaurants and shacks where you can sample Konkan cuisine and sit around absorbing local colour. Murud-Janjira is certainly an enjoyable getaway from Mumbai. Part of the excitement is a ferry or catamaran ride to get here, or the option of hitching a lift on a bullock-cart or tonga. So pack that swimwear and sunscreen and set of for a great weekend on the Konkan coast.