From Mumbai
Janjira, near Murud, is amongst the more
hardy forts that the Konkan coast is gilded with. The Arabian Sea crashes relentlessly all
around the fort, which lies 2 km into the ocean at Murud, a village in Maharashtra's
Raigad district. Murud was the 15-16th century capital of the Siddis of Janjira. This
indomitable fortress inspired the Maratha chieftain Shivaji to launch several attacks, but
the fort remained unconquerable to the last.
Murud is a peaceful fishing village with a
pretty seashore and a helter-skelter of wooden cottages. It is a quiet little getaway that
basks in the Konkan sunshine. The beach is edged with swaying betel palms, coconut fronds
and groves of casuarinas. A temple dedicated to Dattatreya occupies prime position on a
hillock, from where you can get a commanding view of the entire bay. Dominating the
landscape is the palace of the Siddhi Nawabs, the Janjira fort and the Janjira caves.
The Janjira fort, built in
the mid-16th century, was originally a wooden fortress built by the Murud fishermen to
protect their village from pirates. Burankhan, the minister of the ruler of Ahmednagar,
Nizamshah, later demolished the fortress and built an impregnable stone fort in its place.
Janjira fort had a number of towers and turrets where huge guns and cannons were kept in
perpetual readiness to ward off enemies. Shivaji, Sambhaji and the Peshwas tried, in turn,
to take over the fort, but the Marathas, British or Portuguese could never capture
Janjira.
Much of Janjira fort has been corroded and
washed away after centuries of battering by the ocean. What remains is a brooding
structure overlooking a lovely beach where you can spend many a happy hour swimming and
sunbathing in solitude. You can also relax at the unspoiled beaches of Nandgaon
and Kashid, or visit the Padmadurg fortress nearby.
The beaches and village have a number of
informal restaurants and shacks where you can sample Konkan cuisine and sit around
absorbing local colour. Murud-Janjira is certainly an enjoyable getaway from Mumbai. Part
of the excitement is a ferry or catamaran ride to get here, or the option of hitching a
lift on a bullock-cart or tonga. So pack that swimwear and sunscreen and set of for a
great weekend on the Konkan coast. |