From Kolkata
Bishnupur (or Vishnupur) in
the Bankura district is like a breath of fresh air after Kolkata’s heat and dust. The
verdant fields you traverse to get to this town, just 151 km away, serve as a harbinger of
the surprise that is Bishnupur. This town of terracotta temples and man-made lakes echoes
with the history of the Malla rulers who made it their 16th century capital.
Since Bishnupur had no
stone for construction, the Malla kings built terracotta temples to celebrate their love
for Krishna, the Blue God. These temples have elaborate architecture that merges hybrid
styles. Filigreed terracotta tiles carve out stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata.
Some of the temples you must visit are the Shyam Ray Temple, the twin
shrines of Jorbangla, the Radhey Shyam Temple, the
Sarbamangala and Chinnamasta. The Rass Mancha, built like a step-pyramid,
is Bishnupur’s most famous temple dedicated to Vishnu.
Another attraction is the
embellished Dol Madol cannon, constructed in 1742 by Raja Gopal Singh to
keep the Maratha troops at bay. Visit the Jogesh Chandra Archaeological Centre
to see Malla-dynasty relics. The Mallas also built huge ‘Bandhs’ or embankments
and artificial lakes to beautify their capital and to serve as a protective moat to repel
their enemies. These shimmering lakes - the Lalbandh, Krishnabandh and the Jamuna Bandh
amongst others - cool the town considerably.
Besides temples, Bishnupur
is known for its pottery, especially the lovable terracotta horse called Bankura who is
the mascot of Bankura handicraft. Baluchari and tussar silk sarees, bell metal and shell
handicraft and the quaint circular playing cards called ganijifa, are other specialties of
Bishnupur that you might want to shop for.
In the month of August,
Bishnupur resounds with the mesmerizing lilt of the snake charmer’s pipes. The annual
festival of Jhapan is celebrated with snake shows and snake fights, to revere Goddess
Manasa, the dominant deity of the snake-worship cult. The weeklong Bishnupur Mela brings
the entire town alive with a cultural retrospective towards the end of December.
So come, pick up the cues,
as Bishnupur beckons you to a quick getaway with a difference.
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