The temple building is three storeys high and is crowned with a dome
shaped like an inverted lotus. The lower storey is in white marble, while the two upper
storeys have gold plating. The temple has four entrances instead of the usual single
entry, symbolic of the openness of Sikhism and the fact that followers of all faiths are
welcome here. The walls within are decorated with carved wooden panels and elaborate inlay
work in silver and gold. The Adi Granth, compiled by Guru Arjan Dev, rests on a
throne beneath a jewel-encrusted canopy. Priests continuously recite verses from the holy
book in 3-hour shifts. A complete reading of the text takes 48 hours. The Akal Takht, next
to the Golden Temple, is the seat of the Shiromani Gurudwara Prabandhak Committee, the
religious governing body of the Sikhs. The building of the Akal Takht was begun by Guru
Arjan Dev and completed in 1609 by Guru Hargobind. The Adi Granth is housed in the Akal
Takht and is taken out in procession every morning to be placed at the Harmandir, and is
brought back to the Akal Takht at night.
Shrines on the
northern edge of the corridor are venerated as the 68 holy shrines of the Hindus.
According to the teachings of Guru Arjan Dev, it was enough for the devout to visit these
shrines and not visit all the original Hindu shrines which are distributed across India.
Many of these shrines have now been converted into a martyr’s gallery showing the
gruesome history of the Sikhs. Around the Parikrama, or pathway, are four
rectangular cubicles where Granthis (priests) sit and recite the Granth Sahib.
Pilgrims leave offerings at the steps, and can also get the holy book recited in their
names for a donation.
The Jubi tree, at
the northwestern corner of the complex, was planted some 450 years ago by the
temple’s first head priest. The old, gnarled tree is believed to have special powers
and childless women tie strips of cloth on it to be blessed with sons. Marriage deals are
also fixed under the tree, though this practice is disapproved of by the temple
authorities.
Getting there and around
As the religious
capital of Punjab-and one of India’s most important cities- Amritsar is well
connected by plane, train and road to the rest of the country. Amritsar’s Rajasansi
Airport has air links to Delhi, Srinagar and Chandigarh; the local train station has
regular trains to most major cities in the country.
In addition to air
and rail connections, Amritsar also has frequent bus services from cities and towns both
within Punjab as well as in other states. Besides this, there’s a bus service from
Lahore (35 km away), the only overland service between India and Pakistan.
Within the city,
rented cars, taxis, local buses, unmetered auto-rickshaws and cycle rickshaws can be used
for transport.
When to go
The Golden Temple,
and the city of Amritsar itself, are best visited in the winter. The months between
November and March are pleasant (even cold), although the summer can get blisteringly hot.
Accommodation
and other facilities
Amritsar has a number
of mid-range and luxury hotels- the latter mainly along Mall Road. There are smaller
guesthouses too, and a youth hostel which houses the Punjab Tourism Development
Corporation office. Besides these, there is accommodation at the Golden Temple itself; the
Guru Ram Das and Guru Nanak hostels on one side of the complex offer free accommodation up
to three nights for visitors.
All across
Amritsar are restaurants and eateries galore, where apart from the local food, you can
also get international cuisine, although usually not too authentic. If you’re
visiting the temple, however, it’s best to go to the langar for a taste of
traditional Sikh hospitality. The `Guru-ka-langar’ or community canteen is a Sikh
institution, which was started by Guru Amar Das in the 16th century. The
practice of eating together encouraged shedding of inhibitions and the principle of
equality. The community kitchen at the Golden Temple feeds up to 10,000 people in a day,
free of charges.
Further details on visiting Amritsar and the Golden Temple can be
obtained from the PTDC office at the Youth Hostel, Mall Road, Amritsar.
