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The Himalayas with its glorious peaks, crystal clear mountain streams and dense forests
has been known as Dev Bhoomi, the land of the Gods. The four shrines of Yamunotri,
Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath – known as the Char Dham - were established in Garhwal and
Kumaon as the holiest Hindu shrines, whose tour would bring instant salvation to devotees.
Yamunotri
and
Gangotri are revered as the sources of the
two most holy rivers in India, the Yamuna and the Ganga. Kedarnath and Badrinath have shrines dedicated to Shiva and
Vishnu, two of the gods in the Hindu trinity. |
Yamunotri
High up in a deep cleft on the western face of the Banderpunch peak
is the Yamunotri shrine, worshipped as the source of the holy Yamuna River. 223 kms from
Rishikesh, this mountain shrine is one of the most difficult to access at 3,235 meters.
Technically the source of the river is on the Champasar glacier at Saptarishi Kund (12 kms
further up), but it is at Yamunotri that pilgrims come to worship the goddess Yamuna and
bathe in its chilled waters. According to Hindu mythology, Yamuna, the twin sister of
Yama, descended from the mountains at this point.
The temple at Yamunotri
sits next to the river, around the hot sulphur springs of the Surya Kund. After worshipping a rock pillar
known as Divya Shila, pilgrims enter the
main temple and follow it up with a bath in the holy waters of the river.
From the main
temple, at a distance of about 29 kms, is the ancient temple site of Barkot.
When to go
Yamunotri remains covered with snow and out of bounds from November till May. In summer,
when the ice melts, the access is opened up, but temperatures remain low. in.
Getting there and around
The nearest road head is at Hanuman
Chatti, 14 kms short of the shrine. Regular buses ply from Rishikesh (210 km from
Hanuman Chatti), taking about 9 hours to reach. Hanuman Chatti is also connected by bus to
Dehradun and Mussoorie. From here, the path to Yamunotri can be covered either on foot or
on hired ponies.
Travelling along the Yamuna for about 6 kms from Hanuman Chatti you
reach Phul Chatti, beyond which the trail widens and leads to Janki Chatti, with its
sulphur springs. Off the main trail for about a kilometre across the river, you reach the
village of Kharsali, home to the pandas (priests) of the Yamunotri temple. This
traditional village with stone houses and elaborately carved wooden structures has a
triple storeyed Shiva temple dedicated to Someshwar,
an incarnation of Shiva. From here, the trail gets steeper and more rugged, all the
way up till Yamunotri.
Accommodation
There are GMVN Tourist Bungalows at Hanuman Chatti and Janki Chatti
along the way, as well as one in Yamunotri. In addition there is a cluster of private
guesthouses and Dharamshalas that offer accommodation at cheap rates. Only vegetarian food
is served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited.
Carry adequate woollens, including blankets, since the accommodation
is very basic.
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Gangotri
Nestling amidst deodar forests is the shrine of Gangotri, worshipped by Hindus as the
source of their most sacred river Ganga. At a distance of 105 kms. from the town of
Uttarkashi, Gangotri is the spiritual source of the river, while its actual source is the
ice cave of Gomukh, 18 kms up the Gangotri glacier. Here, Ganga is known as Bhagirathi,
named after the ancient king Bhagirath who prayed to bring her down from the heavens. The
other major tributary, the Alaknanda emerges from glacial waters near Badrinath and joins
the Bhagirathi further down at Devprayag to become the magnificent Ganga. Considered the
most sacred of all rivers, this great life-giver of India continues to be worshipped as a
goddess. Bathing in her waters brings deliverance from sins committed in the present and
all past births.
The shrine of Gangotri is
set amidst rugged mountains and overlooks the thundering river at 3,048 metres. Made of
white stone, the temple is decorated with a gilded roof crowned with a central spire. Near
the temple is the Bhagirath shila, a stone
slab where king Bhagirath sat to meditate. On reaching the shrine pilgrims offer prayers
at the temple and go down to the main bathing ghat
next to the river. Dev ghat, down below and
set amidst tall trees, is the confluence of Bhagirathi with the Kedar Ganga. At Gaurikund magnificent waterfalls create a pool,
which is reached through forest paths along the Gangotri gorge and over a rope bridge
across the mighty river.
Steps lead up from the temple to join the trail leading to the
Gangotri glacier and the ice cave of Gomukh.
Passing through grand mountain vistas, you reach a forest checkpost where a refundable
charge of hundred rupees has to be deposited. Further on, the 24 km. long glacier spreads
out in front and the Bhagirathi peaks stand majestically above.
Before proceeding on the last leg to Gomukh, you can rest for the
night at the picturesque hamlet of Bhojbasa, from where a 5 km. trail leads up to the
source of the Bhagirathi at Gomukh.
Literally meaning `mouth of the cow’, Gomukh reflects the shape of the glacier. The
river comes out of a cavernous opening in the glacier, with large chunks of ice crashing
down into the waters.
6 kms ahead of Gomukh a side trail leads to the meadows of Tapovan and Nandanvan, both surrounded by a line
of majestic peaks, including Bhagirathi, Shivling and the Kedar Dome (6,831 metres).
17 kms. from Gangotri is the celestial emerald lake of Kedar Tal. Situated at a height of 5,000 meters,
this is where the Kedar Ganga originates. The crystal waters of the lake reflect a line of
Himalayan peaks, including the Thalesagar (6,904 metres), Bhrigupanth (6,772 metres) and
the Jogin group. Travelling along the Kedar Ganga for about 8 kms you reach the pastures
of Bhoj Kharak. From here, pine forests
give way to birch trees, the bark of which was used in ancient times to write on.
When to go
Gangotri remains snowbound during winter from November till April. Only when the snow
melts can one reach the shrine, although temperatures remain low even in summers.
The Yatra season is from May till November, but the main pilgrim
rush is usually around June, when the town becomes an overcrowded mess. Monsoons are bad
for travelling because of the landslides. From September again the weather is clear and
the roads easier to travel on.
Getting there and around
Gangotri is 248 kms. from Rishikesh, the nearest rail head. Regular
bus services connect Gangotri with Rishikesh. Uttarkashi, further north and 97 kms from
Gangotri, is the other major town on the road; buses, private taxis as well as shared
jeeps are available to reach the shrine. The road leads right up to Gangotri, though parts
of it may be blocked occasionally by landslides.
Accommodation
Gangotri
has a collection of private hotels, ashrams as well as a GMVN Tourist rest house. The
Forest Rest House near the river has a very attractive setting and can be booked through
the Divisional Forest Officer at Uttarkashi. The tiny hamlet of Harsil, at the bottom of
the Gangotri gorge, also has a GMVN Guest House. Only vegetarian food is served in the
hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited. Be sure to carry adequate woollens,
including blankets, since resources can get stretched during the peak season.
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Kedarnath
Kedarnath,
at
a distance of 223 kms from Rishikesh, is
one of the most sacred mountain shrines of Lord Shiva. At a height of 3,581 metres, this
ancient site nestles close to the source of the Mandakini, one of the tributaries of the
Ganga. Amidst a stunning landscape of stark mountain faces, deep gorges and snow peaks,
the Kedarnath shrine is amongst the most important in the Himalayas.
According to Hindu mythology, when the Pandavas reached the
Himalayas, they searched for Shiva to bless them. The lord tried to escape by disguising
himself as a bull and mixing with a grazing herd. Bhima, one of the Pandava brothers,
straddled the valley and let the herd pass through his legs. When he saw one bull refusing
to pass through, he recognised it as Shiva. On being spotted, Shiva dived into the ground
at Kedarnath, with Bhima holding onto his back. While Shiva’s hindquarters remained
at Kedarnath, the other parts of his body emerged in four locations, thus giving rise to
the Panch Kedar or five Kedars. The lingam
remained at Kedarnath, while the arms appeared at Tunganath (3,680 metres) with the
highest temple in India, the face at Rudranath, the navel at Madhmaheshwar in northwest
Garhwal and the hair at Kalpeshwar, over the Alaknanda valley.
The trek to Kedarnath begins at the small village of Gauri Kund with its Gauri temple and hot
sulphur springs or Tapt Kund. From Gauri Kund a pony trail leads up through pine forests
to Rambara, beyond which the road gets
steeper and more difficult. After a very tough climb the track eases out a kilometre short
of Kedarnath at Garur Chatti. Beyond, as
you round a corner on the trail, you suddenly come upon the southern face of the grand
Kedarnath peak (6,940 metres) at the end of the Mandakini valley.
The Kedarnath temple,
dating back to the 8th century, nestles in the shadow of this great mountain.
Built of grey stone, the temple stands at the head of a small settlement. Outside the main
sanctum stands a massive stone image of Shiva’s Nandi bull. Behind the temple is the
memorial of the saint-philosopher Shankara who died at this spot.
To the south of Kedarnath a path leads up the hillside to the
ancient temple of Bhairav Nath, a fearsome
embodiment of the lord of destruction. Till the 19th century fanatic devotees
jumped to death from a cliff near the temple in the hope of attaining salvation.
Crossing the Mandakini over the main bridge, a trek leads up the
valley to the far edge of the glacier at Chorabari Tal, now known as Gandhi Sarovar. About 800 metres short of the
lake lies the source of the Mandakini. According to mythological tales, the eldest Pandava
Yudhishthir left for heaven near the lake.
6 kms up from Kedarnath is another lake, the Vasuki Tal, at a height of 4,135 metres.
Surrounded by snow mountains, the placid lake offers good views of the Chaukhamba peaks.
20 kms from Kedarnath is another trek route leading to Sonprayag, the confluence of the Son Ganga with
Mandakini. 5 kms beyond Sonprayag is the ancient temple of Triyuginarayan. Believed to be the spot where
Lord Shiva married Parvati, the temple has an undying flame that is said to be the
marriage fire of the divine couple.
Amongst other sites around Kedarnath is Gupt Kashi, 45 kms away, with its temples of
Ardhnarishwar (half male-half female form – a unification of Shiva and Shakti) and
Vishwanathji. Ukhimath, 60 kms below, is
the winter shrine of the deity at Kedarnath. It is also home to the Rawal or head priest
for the winter months.
When to go
The Kedarnath temple opens in the spring season of Vaisakhi in May.
From May till early November, the shrine is accessible for visitors. On the first day of
the Hindu month of Kartik, the temple closes for the winter and the deity is worshipped
lower down at Ukhimath.
Getting there and around
The nearest rail head is at Rishikesh, 223 kms away. From Rishikesh,
regular bus services are available up to Gaurikund, 14 kms short of the main shrine. The
remaining 14 km stretch has to be done either on foot or on ponies that are available for
hire.
Accommodation
At
Kedarnath, the temple committee runs a guesthouse besides the GMVN Tourist Bungalow.
Besides these there are several private hotels and dharamshalas that offer cheap
accommodation. Only vegetarian food is served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is
strictly prohibited.
Carry adequate woollens, including blankets, since resources can get
stretched during the peak season.
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Badrinath
The Vishnu temple of Badrinath is located 298 kms from Rishikesh and
48 km from Joshimath . This holy town nestles at a height of 3,133 metres, at the site
where a forest of Badri (berry) trees, known as the mythical Badrivan, once covered the
area.
The great Nilkantha peak (6,558 metres) towers over the temple set
deep down in the Alaknanda valley. The rulers of Garhwal built the present temple of
Badrinarayan some two hundred years ago.
The original Badrinath
shrine, built by the 9th century saint Shankara, has been re-built
several times over due to damage from avalanches and snowfall. Made of wood, the temple
stands 15 metres high, topped with a gilded cupola. The exteriors are painted in bright
colours every year before the temple gates open. Standing in sharp contrast to the grey
concrete buildings around it and the stark mountain slopes behind, the temple resembles a
Tibetan gompa from a distance. The head priest of Badrinath is also that of Kedarnath,
hailing from the Namboodiri Brahmin caste of Kerala in southern India.
Below the
temple are the Tapt Kund and Surya Kund, hot sulphur springs where pilgrims
take a ritual dip before entering the temple. The ancient village of Badrinath is to the south of the temple.
24 kms from Badrinath is the famous site of Govindghat, the
confluence of the Alaknanda with the Lakshmanganga. This is also the entry point for the
mystical Valley of Flowers and the Sikh shrine of Hemkund Sahib. The Vasuki Tal at a
height of 4,135 metres is 8 kms from Badrinath.
Besides the main shrine of Badrinath, there are four
other shrines that together form the Panch Badri
or five Badris. Bhavishya Badri is believed to be the future Badrinath shrine, which will
be used once the present shrine site is blocked when the twin peaks of Jay and Vijay join
together. The other Badris are Yoga Badri at Pandukeshwar where the idol resides in
winter, Adi Badri with its ancient Gupta age temples near Karnaprayag and Vridha Badri at
Animath near Joshimath where Badrinath was originally worshipped.
When to go
As with the other Char Dham shrines, the Badrinath temple opens only
from May till October. It closes down for winter in November, when the deity is carried to
Pandukeshwar for worship.
Getting there
and around
Just 40 kms.
from the border with Tibet, Badrinath is of strategic importance to the Indian army, who
maintain a road link throughout the year. The town has good road connections, with daily
buses and private taxis traveling to and from Joshimath, 48 km down the road. Joshimath is
in turn linked by bus to a number of towns in north India, including Rishikesh, Haridwar,
Uttarkashi, Nainital and Dehradun. Rishikesh, which is just short of 300 km from
Badrinath, is the closest railhead. The nearest airport is Jolly Grant, at Dehradun.
Accommodation
Accommodation options in Badrinath run the gamut from GMVN and PWD
resthouses to dharamshalas, privately owned guest houses and small hotels. None of them
are luxurious, and it makes sense to carry bedding and spare blankets, as resources tend
to be rather stretched during peak season.
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