Spiti
is a sub-division of the district of Lahaul-Spiti (Lahaul is the other sub-division); the
main town of Spiti is Kaza. A high-altitude bare desert, Spiti is bisected by the Spiti
River, which runs from the slopes of Kunzum La Pass to Sumdo. Spiti was, prior to
India’s independence, the domain of the Maharaja of Kashmir; it formed part of
Ladakh, and is, in fact, much like Ladakh- treeless, harsh, bitterly cold and peopled by a
race which is remarkably friendly, warm and hospitable. The little vegetation there is,
stretches along the rivers and in places where, because of irrigation, the people have
been able to plant crops and trees.
Spiti’s still an
undeveloped area- with few facilities outside the main town, Kaza- but its unspoilt beauty
is such that not too many trekkers complain. Walk along the Spiti river; trekking up to
one of the thirty-odd Buddhist monasteries or labour up to one of the villages which cling
to the mountainsides: Spiti is undeniably beautiful, whether you’re looking for
panoramic views, quiet old monasteries, or friendly villages.
When to go
Like the Lahaul Valley, the Spiti Valley too is connected to the southern part of Himachal
Pradesh through the Rohtang Pass, which is inaccessible through almost three-quarters of
the year. Other than the Rohtang Pass, the Kunzum La Pass, between Spiti and Lahaul, also
has to be traversed if you have to get to Spiti, which makes things even more difficult-
because Kunzum La stays choked with snow even longer than Rohtang. As a consequence, the
only months when you can actually visit Spiti are August, September and October.
Entry
Spiti was opened to foreign tourists less than a decade back- in 1992- and even now, any
foreigners headed for the area require to get permits. Entry permits can be obtained from
the District Magistrate at Simla or Kullu, or the Sub District Magistrate in Simla.
Foreigners travelling in a group of four or more can get a permit from the Additional
Deputy Commissioner in Kaza.
In all cases,
foreigners will need to go through a recognised travel agency. A prepared itinerary, along
with a passport, three photographs and the completed application form, will have to be
submitted to the concerned official in order to pave the way for a permit. Kaza has a
checkpoint where all permits need to be verified before you’re allowed to proceed
further.
Access
Kaza is connected by bus to Simla- which has its own airport- and Manali, which is, in turn, linked by bus to nearby Kullu. Kullu
has a small domestic airport at Bhuntar, 10 km from the city, and a busy bus station which
is linked to a number of cities across northern India.
Alternatively, you can
hire a vehicle and go all the way from Simla, Delhi, Kullu, Chandigarh or one of the other
main cities in the region. Vehicles can be hired in all of these cities, although you
won’t be able to drive yourself. What you’ll get is a vehicle driven by a
chauffeur who knows the mountain roads like the back of his hand- hopefully.
Precautions and
Essentials
Trekking through Spiti require some preparation; a rucksack and a stout pair of shoes is not
enough. Heavy equipment- such as tents and sleeping bags- will necessarily have to be
carried, along with basic cooking equipment and food. Heavy woollens, waterproof jackets
and spare clothing must be packed as well, because even during summer much of this
area’s bitterly cold, wet and windy. Other essentials include a good sunscreen and
sun glasses- the air’s so rarefied that the sun can really burn when it’s bright
and shining.
In all cases, hire a
qualified guide to lead your trek; it’s mandatory for foreigners while trekking, and
highly advisable for Indians.
Accommodation
Kaza, Losar and Tabo boast of PWD resthouses, and some of the larger- and more touristy-
towns may have the odd privately-owned guesthouse or two, but don’t count on it. Even
in resthouses, accommodation will be very basic, and you’d better be prepared to
rough it out. Anyway, once you’ve left Kaza, you’ll probably end up sleeping in
a tent pitched in a convenient valley.
Trekking Routes
- Kaza-Langza-Hikim-Comic-Kaza: Start the trek from Kaza,
the administrative centre of the Spiti Valley- and about the only place in the region
which offers a selection, although limited, of accommodation and dining facilities. From Kaza, head for Langza, at
a distance of eight and a half km. The area’s known for the wealth of fossils all
around, but for the sake of Spiti’s natural heritage, please don’t pick up any-
it’s illegal, anyway.
From Langza,
follow the track up to the Buddhist monastery of Hikim. Hikim Gompa, built under
the patronage of the Mongols, is modelled on a Chinese palace and is an unusual bit of
architecture. From Hikim, walk on, to the rather amusingly named village of Comic,
a further eight km from Hikim. The trek to Comic is a circuitous one, and you don’t
need to return to Kaza via Hikim or Langza- just follow the straight road back to Kaza,
which is only about six km.
- Kaza-Ki-Kibber-Gete-Kaza: One of the shorter, but
immensely interesting, treks in the vicinity of Kaza. All three places on the trekking
route- Ki, Gete and Kibber- lie to the north of Kaza, with Ki being a mere 11 km from
Kaza. Ki is one of the largest, oldest and most important Buddhist monasteries in
Spiti, and celebrated a thousand years of its existence in 2000, when the Dalai Lama
performed a prestigious rite known as the kalachakra ceremony at the monastery.
Home to about 300 monks, the Ki gompa has a noteworthy collection of traditional religious
paintings (thangkas) and scriptures. At the monastery is a small guesthouse, and
there are facilities for camping.
Spend the night at Ki,
then head for Kibber, 19 km from Kaza and one of the highest villages in the world. Kibber boasts of a
small bank, a village and a post office, but the village of Gete, which claims to
be the highest village in the world, is not quite so fortunate. Gete’s at a
height of close to 16,000 ft, and is approachable only on foot. From Gete, trek back to
Kibber, where you can camp for the night before heading back to Kaza.
- Kaza-Losar-Kunzum La: A westward trek from Kaza, the
expedition to Kunzum La can be a very rewarding one, especially as it passes through some
of Spiti’s most scenic areas.
Heading west from
Kaza, go towards Losar, the last village in Spiti- beyond it lies the Lahaul
Valley. Losar, 55 km from Kaza, lies in an area which is starkly different from much of
Spiti- instead of barren mountains and arid desert, you’ll see apple orchards,
poplar, willow and fields of vegetables. On the trekking trail to Losar, you can camp en
route; there are a number of places along the way which are suitable for pitching a tent.
When you reach Losar, you can stop for the night at the local PWD resthouse, before continuing, the next day, to Kunzum La,
18 km further to the west. Kunzum La-`The Meeting place for the Ibex’- doesn’t
harbour ibex any more, but it’s still important. It’s the pass which links Spiti
to Lahaul, and, at a height of 16,000 ft, commands a magnificent view of the surrounding
area.
From Kunzum La, you
have the option of either heading back to Kaza, or, if you’ve got a permit to enter
Lahaul, you can cross the pass and go to Batal, in Lahaul.
- Kaza-Tabo-Sumdo-Nako: From Kaza, head east along the
Spiti river to Tabo, 47 km from Kaza. Tabo is one of Spiti’s largest
settlements and the site of a prominent Buddhist monastery. The Tabo gompa, which is more
than a thousand years old, has a fine collection of priceless old thangkas and religious
manuscripts which are worth seeing. The town also has a small government-owned resthouse,
and a few private guesthouses, where accommodation is available for the night. From Tabo,
take the trekking trail onwards to Sumdo, on the border between Spiti and Kinnaur.
Sumdo lies only about 20 km from the Chinese border, and recent efforts at afforestation
have helped make the area a refreshingly verdant one.
Further on, in the
district of Kinnaur, lies one of Himachal’s highest and prettiest villages, Nako.
Nako, besides being a beautiful place, is also reputed to be the final resting place of
Padmasambhava, the first disciple of the Buddha to visit Tibet. Situated at the edge of a
picturesque lake, Nako has little to offer in the way of accommodation, although
you’re welcome to pitch a tent on the outskirts of the settlement.
Note: Sumdo
lies within what is known as the `inner line’- a border area which is adjacent to
India’s frontier with China. Special Inner Line permits are required to visit Sumdo,
and may be obtained from the District Commissioner in Kaza or Simla. Permits are issued
for a group of no less than four people, and that too only against an introductory letter
from a registered travel agent.
Other trekking routes which are popular include the trek from Kaza to the Pin Valley
National Park- the latter a well-preserved wilderness which is home to the highly
endangered snow leopard- and the trek from Kaza to Dhankar. Dhankar, once the
capital of Spiti, has an old and important Buddhist monastery which is known for its
medieval murals. Dhankar lies 25 km from Tabo and can be a part of the Kaza-Nako trek.
Further information on
trekking routes, weather conditions, and other details may be obtained from the HPTDC
Tourist Information Office at Manali (Tel. 01902-253531). Another good source for
help on trekking and climbing is the Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports in
Manali,Tel (01902) 252206 - 252342, which organises regular courses
in activities ranging from mountaineering and climbing to white-water rafting and
trekking. The Institute also organises regular treks, and equipment may be hired from them
for hiking.
There are, in addition
to the Institute, a number of private tour operators and travel agents in Manali and Kaza
who organise trekking trips. Besides providing information, they also provide trained
guides for groups interested in going on a trek. |
