Talk of skiing, and most people will think of the powder-white slopes of
Switzerland; India, tropical country that it is, will invariably not come to mind. Which
is sad, because India too offers skiing- limited, but fulfilling. Gulmarg, in Jammu and
Kashmir, was a skier’s mecca for some decades before strife in the state effectively
put a stop to nearly all tourism- but, in the meantime, other places have appeared on the
ski map of India. Kufri and Narkanda (now getting a new lease of life, although
they’ve been visited by in-the-know skiers for quite some time), Auli and Manali-
both fast gaining a reputation for good slopes- all offer a very satisfying skiing
holiday..
India’s ski
resorts are largely confined to the western half of the Himalayas- in Uttaranchal and
Himachal Pradesh, high enough to get a good cover of snow during the winter months, yet
low enough to be easily accessible. Kufri and Narkanda in Himachal Pradesh have been
frequented by skiers for decades now, while Auli is the new kid on the block- but what
a kid!
All across the
Himalayas, January to March is the skiing season, when the resorts are at their snowy
best. By late December, most slopes are already well covered, but places really start
hotting up only once the new year starts.
Auli
India’s premier
ski zone, Auli lies high up in the mountains of Uttaranchal, above the town of Joshimath.
About 2,500- 3,050 mt above sea level, it’s surrounded by forests of oak and deodar,
against a backdrop of towering snowcapped mountains- Nandadevi, Neelkanth and Kamet
included. The view, as you’d expect, is spectacular, and a number of tourists come
here just to feast their eyes on the beauty of the place. During the summer, the slopes of
Auli are covered with grass and wildflowers, but once the snow starts falling, the entire
scene changes.
The main snow slopes
of Auli stretch for about 5 km, and include 500 mt long ski-lifts and 800 mt long
chair-lifts. Snow beaters and snow-packing machines are continually used to keep the
slopes dressed. Auli, in fact, is so good that French and Austrian experts have compared
it favourably to slopes in Switzerland.
The GMVN (Garhwal
Mandal Vikas Nigam) handles all skiing activities at Auli, so you’ll have to contact
them for reservations. They’ll be able to make arrangements for accommodation and
transport, and will provide equipment too. Week-long and fortnight-long skiing courses are
conducted by the GMVN at Auli as well. Whether you’re going as a novice or a veteran,
you should contact either of the following:
General Manager
(Tourism), GMVN
74/1, Rajpur Road, Dehradun
(Tel: 0135-2746 817, 2749 308)
or
Asstt General Manager
(Tourism), GMVN
Kailash Gate, Muni-ki-Reti, Rishikesh
(Tel: 1364-2492010)
Getting there
Joshimath, 13 km downhill from Auli, is the most convenient roadhead. Joshimath is
connected by road to Haridwar (276 km), Rishikesh (253 km), Dehradun (295 km) and Delhi
(about 500 km); from all these cities, and a host of other towns across northern India,
daily buses arrive in Joshimath. Haridwar is the nearest railhead, with trains from Delhi,
Varanasi, and Agra. Jolly Grant, at Dehradun, is the closest airport, but is currently
rather unreliable, with erratic flights and periodic shut-downs for repairs and
extensions.
Once you get to
Joshimath, you can hire a car or taxi, or take the bus which climbs up to Auli. Much more exciting, however, is the cable car
which runs between Joshimath and Auli. It covers a stretch of 4 km and rises from a height
of 1,000 mt to 3,000 mt.
Where to stay
Basic accommodation facilities exist in the form of tourist bungalows at Joshimath and
Auli. Rooms come with attached bathrooms, hot and cold running water, cable television and
basic eateries- but that’s about all. Be prepared to rough it out a bit, and
don’t expect any luxuries.
Accommodation in Auli
is rather limited, so reserve your rooms in advance.
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Manali
Manali in Himachal
Pradesh is known mainly for heli-skiing. The area around the town, including Deo Tibba,
Hanuman Tibba, Rohtang Pass and Chanderkhani Pass, is where heli-skiing takes place.
Skiers are taken aboard a helicopter up to a height of close to 14,000 ft, where they can
then get off the copter and ski downhill. It’s exhilarating- and expensive- and is
fast becoming a popular alternative to just going to Manali for treks.
Further out from
Manali, good ski slopes exist at Solang; Solang Nallah, 10 km from Manali, also hosts an
annual skiing tournament.
The Directorate of
Mountaineering and Allied Sports in Manali is one of the premier institutions for skiing
in the Himalayas. The organisation offers ski courses throughout the winter, and can
provide both assistance as well as advice on where and how to go skiing. The directorate
also hires out equipment.
Getting there
The airport closest to Manali is at Bhuntar, near Kullu; domestic flights arrive here from
most major airports in India, and connecting buses do the trip to Manali.
The nearest railhead
is Jogindernagar, 135 km from Manali. Manali itself has no train connections, although
it’s well linked to the rest of northern India by road. There’s a large bus
station on the Mall, with daily buses from Kullu, Chandigarh, Shimla and other major towns
and cities in this part of the country.
Where to stay
Manali offers a reasonably wide range of accommodation. Some nice old hotels are situated
on the outskirts of the town, while inexpensive lodges and privately owned guesthouses
abound in the old town. Fortunately for skiers, Manali’s most crowded during the
summers, when hordes of families from all across India descend on the town, determined to
enjoy their summer vacations. Winters are low season for everybody except skiers, and the
chances of getting good accommodation at relatively low tariffs are bright.
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Kufri
The ski resort which
is perhaps the most easily accessible for anyone in northern India is Kufri. Just about 10
km from Shimla, Kufri’s a quiet little town which becomes a busy winter wonderland
once the snow starts falling. British officers in the Indian Army discovered this
beautiful little place way back in the 1930s, and a serendipitous discovery it was- for
Kufri, within a few years, became one of the hottest winter resorts in Himachal. The 1950s
and 60s, especially, were boomtime for Kufri, although it’s now been overshadowed by
classier resorts like Auli. The snow still falls in Kufri, however, and a skiing trip here
can be pretty satisfying. The Mahasu Ridge, just above Kufri, has some good slopes which
are worth a try.
Getting there
Shimla, just about 10 km from Kufri, is well connected to the rest of India by air, rail
and road. Shimla’s Jubbarbhatti Airport has flights from Delhi, Chandigarh and Kullu,
and a narrow-gauge train links Shimla to Kalka. Kalka has train connections to a number of
cities and towns in India, including Delhi. Daily buses link Shimla to major towns in
northern India.
From Shimla, buses or
hired taxis can be taken to get to Kufri.
Where to stay
Kufri’s so close to Shimla that it’s really not essential to stay in Kufri. You
could, if you’re willing to do the short trip to and from Kufri everyday, stay in one
of Shimla’s many hotels. Himachal’s capital has a wide range of properties, all
the way from economy to deluxe. If you’d rather stay in Kufri itself, there’s a
holiday resort, a winter sports club run by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development
Corporation, a PWD Resthouse, and a few guesthouses.
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Narkanda
64 km from Shimla is
one of India’s oldest ski resorts, Narkanda. Narkanda lies at an altitude of 8,100
ft, and is an important horticultural centre. Fruit orchards on the surrounding hills
produce some of Himachal’s most luscious apples and cherries, making Narkanda one of
Himachal’s pleasantest settlements, no matter what time of the year. What’s good
about Narkanda is that it’s still comparatively unspoilt and uncrowded, so you
won’t find yourself suffocated by hordes of fellow skiers.
The slopes at Narkanda
run the gamut from beginner’s to advanced, from slalom to cross-country. Hattu Peak,
6 km from Narkanda, towers 2,000 ft above Narkanda and has
popular ski slopes.
Himachal Tourism
manages all the skiing facilities at Narkanda. They hire out equipment, conduct training
courses, and provide everything from accommodation to transport. The Directorate of
Mountaineering and Allied Sports at Manali also plays a part in the skiing at Narkanda;
they organise special skiing courses January onwards every year.
Getting there
Fortunately for visitors, Narkanda is conveniently situated on the main highway from
Shimla to Kinnaur. There are regular buses to and from Shimla (which, in turn, is
connected to the rest of northern India by road and rail). The journey to Narkanda from
Shimla is just about two hours, and both taxis as well as private vehicles can be hired in
Shimla to do the trip.
Where to stay
Narkanda’s list of tourist accommodation facilities is rather modest. The town has a
pretty- but otherwise fairly unpretentious- resthouse, a small hotel operated by the
Himachal State Tourism Development Corporation, and a handful of other properties. Most
are clean and comfortable, but nowhere near luxurious.
Other options
Besides Manali, Kufri
and Narkanda, the other areas where skiing is being developed include Lahaul, Spiti,
Kinnaur, Laka and Triund- the latter above Dharamshala. All of these have good ski slopes,
and plenty of potential for pulling in crowds of eager-beaver skiers; all that’s
required is a lot of development in the way of infrastructure. Until access routes are
developed, accommodation improved, and other facilities spruced up, they’re unlikely
to attract any but the most passionate of skiers. If you’re one of the adventurous
kinds who’re willing to put up with a little hardship, you could contact the Himachal
Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation- they’ll be able to give you information on
alternative destinations for skiing, and make the requisite arrangements.
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