…So
that’s the story of the camel,
That happy humpy desert mammal.
On any desert you will be wise
To park your car and ride these guys.
- Bob Tucker
And in
the Thar too the camel’s the best ride ever. India’s western desert, sprawling
across the state of Rajasthan, has its share of dromedaries- ponderous, surly, smelly and
generally unattractive. But spend a few days riding one, and you could just find yourself
thinking they’re not so very disgusting.
Rajasthan,
India’s westernmost state, is the very essence of exotic India- barren desert and
drifting sand dunes. Monotonous and dull- but only at first sight. Step in deeper, and
you’ll be overwhelmed by sounds and sights, colours and fragrances which will stay
with you long after. The vivid orange and green skirts of local women on the way to a
distant well; the bright blue houses of an entire town; the beautifully folksy sound of a
village musician playing on a four-stringed sarangi. The aroma of good, home-cooked food,
redolent with pure ghee; the comforting warmth of a blazing bonfire on a chill desert
night…
You can
see Rajasthan on a jeep safari. Or, if you’ve a penchant for the high life, aboard
the Palace on Wheels, Rajasthan’s luxury train. But to really get a hands-on
feel of the desert state, there’s no beating a camel safari. Clamber up on one of
these seemingly ungainly beasts, hang on for dear life, and let the good times roll-
literally, for the Ship of the Desert walks in a way which would certainly remind any
sailor of a rolling, pitching deck in turbulent waters!
When
to go
Most camel safaris are organised in the winter, when the weather’s good.
Rajasthan’s summers are almost unbearably hot and dry, so going on a camel safari
during this time is virtually impossible. November to March, when days are cool (and
nights cold!) is when most camel safaris are organised.
What
to bring
You’ll almost certainly be doing your camel safari in the winter, when woollens are a
necessary part of your packing. Desert nights, especially, can get very cold, so it’s
essential to take along plenty of warm sweaters and jackets when on a camel safari.
Although mattresses are usually provided by whoever’s organising the camel safari,
you’ll need to carry bedding- a warm sleeping bag is recommended, and an additional
blanket or two can always be used.
During
the daytime, the sun can be blistering, so make sure you’ve got along your sun hat, a
pair of sun glasses, and suntan lotion. Carry a first aid kit along with you, as well as
any other essentials you might need- out there in the desert, trying to find a shop which
will sell you your favourite brand of soap can be a problem.
It’s
a good idea to carry along extra blankets to cover the wooden saddle which you’ll
probably be sitting on. Blankets are excellent padding, and can protect you from a sore
bottom after a hard day’s riding.
Getting
there
Most camel safaris start from Jaisalmer, which is connected by air, train and road to the
rest of India. Rajasthan’s capital, Jaipur, is also a convenient base for exploring
the state, whether on camel or otherwise. Jaipur has a well-connected airport, as well as
regular train and bus links to a number of cities across India. All camel-safari towns in
Rajasthan, such as Bikaner and Mandawa, are connected by road to Jaipur. Buses run between
all the major towns of the state, and private cars or taxis can be hired to do the trip.
Do’s
and don’ts
It’s important to check, when you’re booking a place on a camel safari, what is
included in the price you’re paying. Find out what arrangements are being made for
accommodation, food and drink and other essentials. In some camel safaris, mineral water
is not a part of the package, in which case you’ll have to bring your own. Find out
for sure what you’re getting before you book.
When you
do start on the camel safari, keep a few things in mind. Remember that you’re
travelling through the desert- it’s dry, and if you’re not careful, you could
get dehydrated. Drink plenty of water- at least 2 to 4 litres a day- and keep yourself
well covered, to prevent sunburn. Wear a sunhat and sun glasses and slap on the suntan
lotion if you don’t want your skin to start peeling.
Rajasthan,
although it’s fast getting as commercialised as any other part of India, still is
pretty unspoilt- especially as far as the desert is concerned. Keep it that way; please
don’t leave a trail of junk behind you or harm the ecology and culture of this
beautiful region.
Fundamental
facts
A large number of travel agents and tour operators in Rajasthan organise camel safaris.
Most of these are in the vicinity of Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Osian and Khimsar, and stretch
from anywhere between 2 to 7 days, with longer ones of up to a month. Shorter, day-long
camel safaris which just about give you a glimpse of the desert are also organised. The
majority of camel safaris start from the desert fort town of Jaisalmer.
In most
cases, one camel is provided per person, and a camel cart accompanies the entourage, laden
with food, utensils and other supplies; it’s also an option for anyone who gets sick
of sitting on a lurching camel. Tents, food, mineral water, mattresses and an escort are
invariably provided, and most operators will also make sure you get a full dose of local
entertainment in the evenings. For longer camel safaris, which cover a few days, camps are
usually set up at night in the vicinity of villages.
Among the
more popular circuits for camel safaris are:
Jaisalmer
1.
Jaisalmer-Badabagh- Baisakhai- Ramkunda- Roopsi- Ludharva- Chatrayil- Salkha- Beri of
Kanoi- Masooradi- Jeseiri- Dedha- Deegasar- Kuldhara- Moolsagar- Amarsagar- Jaisalmer:
Jaisalmer,
India’s westernmost town, seems at first glance to be caught in a time warp.
Dominated by one of India’s most impressive forts- which is, incidentally, home to a
quarter of the town’s population- Jaisalmer is a city of cobbled streets, medieval
architecture- and the desert. Golden sand dunes surround Jaisalmer, and this is where the
camel reigns supreme- if you can call it that.
From Jaisalmer,
a camel sfari of a few hours takes you to Badabagh, where the tombs of the Bhatti
Rajput kings (erstwhile rulers of Jaisalmer) are worth visiting. Close to Badabagh is the
village of Baisakhai, with an interesting old Hindu temple. A brief halt at
Baisakhai is followed up with a ride to Ramkunda, known both for its picturesque
location and for its Hindu temples. Most camel safaris will halt for the night at
Ramkunda, and carry on the next day to the village of Roopsi, with its
wattle-and-daub houses, straight out of antiquity.
Further
on from Roopsi, the camel safari wends its way to the village of Ludharva, which is dominated by a Jain
temple. Chatrayil, a typical Muslim village, complete with a mosque, is the next
halt, and is a nice place to spend the night before carrying on the following day to the
Rajput village of Salkha, which is in close proximity to the sand dunes of Beri
of Kanoi. When you get to this point, make sure you’ve got your camera handy.
Beri of Kanoi has lots of traditional Rajasthani wells, and you’ll invariably find
village women, in colourful lehengas, fetching water. Kanoi itself is a village of
carpenters, and produces excellent handcarved wooden items- perfect for that `souvenir
from Rajasthan’ for folks back home.
From
Kanoi, the camel safari proceeds to Masooradi village, and then on to the oasis of Jeseiri.
After a wash-and-change at Jeseiri (that’s what oases are for!), the camels move on
to the Rajput village of Dedha and then to Deegasar, a lakeside hamlet which
is picture-perfect.
After
Deegasar, the next halt is the village of Kuldhara, where excavations have revealed
ancient settlements dating back many centuries. From Kuldhara, the safari heads back to
Jaisalmer, passing through the hamlets of Moolsagar and Amarsagar on the way. Amarsagar
is home to a finely carved Jain temple, and is worth a halt.
This
route is really one of the longest camel safaris in the state; a number of shorter
versions of it are available, if you don’t have the time or the inclination to go the
whole hog.
2. Jaisalmer- Moolsagar-
Kuldhara- Masooradi- Padiyari- Moondardi- Jaisalmer:
An
abridged version of the first camel safari, this one starts from Jaisalmer, and passes
through Moolsagar, Kuldhara and Masooradi, before proceeding to Padiyari and then to the
hamlet of Moondardi. From Moondardi, the safari heads back to Jaisalmer. A short trip, but
enjoyable enough, especially for someone who doesn’t have the time to spare for a
longer expedition.
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1.Bikaner-
Naukh- Kanasar- Baru- Chayan- Sataya- Tadana- Mohangarh- Dungri-Jaisalmer:
333 km
north-east of Jaisalmer lies the desert town of Bikaner, established towards the end of
the 15th century and named after its founder, Bika. For many decades a busy
market town which throbbed with activity, Bikaner still manages to preserve an aura of
medieval bustle- although its economic structure has changed somewhat. Camel caravans from
West Asia do not pass through Bikaner any more, but the town produces some of the best
sweets, savoury snacks and rugs in India.
This
route starts at Bikaner, where you can see the magnificent old Junagarh fort and
the lovely Lalgarh Palace, before you get on to your camel and set off. The camel safari works its way southwards, passing
through the hamlets of Naukh, Kansar, Baru, Chayan, Sataya and Tadana to Mohangarh.
Mohangarh, although a small town, is dominated by an imposing sandstone fortress which
deserves a visit. From the town, the trail continues to Dungri and then onto Jaisalmer,
where it ends.
2.
Bikaner- Charkhada- Teliyan ki Dhani- Kanasar- Baru Bhala- Bungri- Telansar- Chaku-
Bharaiya- Jambo- Jaisalmer:
Another
of the Bikaner-Jaisalmer camel safaris, but one which follows a different route. This one
starts at Bikaner, and instead of heading directly south to Jaisalmer, makes a
detour eastward into the neighbouring district of Jodhpur. Passing through the villages of
Charkhada, Teliyan ki Dhani, Kanasar, Baru Bhala, Telansar, Chaku and Bharaiya
along the way, the camel safari reaches the hamlet of Jambo, in Jodhpur district.
From Jambo, it turns westward and goes to Jaisalmer, where it ends.
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Mandawa
Mandawa-Dhakas-Khotia-Mandawa:
Mandawa,
just a few hours’ drive from Delhi, is known primarily for its wonderful old havelis,
opulent mansions constructed by rich Marwari merchants who had amassed huge fortunes from
trade. The havelis of Mandawa, decorated with colourful frescoes, are worth a visit before
you set off on the camel safari.
From Mandawa,
a camel safari of about six hours takes you to the hamlet of Dhakas, around 18 km
from Mandawa. Dhakas lies amidst the dunes of the Thar, and its nearby villages, also in
the middle of the desert, make for good exploring.
Most
camel safaris halt for the night at Dhakas, then continue the next day to the hamlet of Khotia,
a further six hours from Dhakas. A brief halt at Khotia is followed by a ride back to
Mandawa.
This
camel safari is one of the shortest offered and though it’s not full of exotica, it
allows you a brief but enlightening glimpse of life in one of India’s harshest but
loveliest terrains.
These are
just a few of the more popular routes; other camel safaris are organised throughout
Rajasthan. Some, like the ones above, originate in Jaisalmer, Bikaner or Mandawa, while
others `do’ the area around Jodhpur and Shekhavati, the latter rich with
fresco-decorated havelis. Camel safaris like the ones in the vicinity of Jaisalmer and
Shekhavati offer plenty of scope for touring medieval forts, visiting ancient temples and
photographing some of Rajasthan’s most imposing monuments. The ones around Bikaner
are, on the contrary, more suited for a glimpse of typical village life. You probably
won’t see too many famous forts or palaces on these circuits, but it’s a grand
opportunity to get a taste- often literally- of rural Rajasthan.
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