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Known as the `City of Gardens and Palaces',
Patiala doesn't quite make it to the top of Punjab's high-profile tourist destinations,
but it's worth a visit nevertheless- if only to have a look at the sumptuous Sheesh Mahal
in the Qila Mubarak. A telling tribute to the days of the flamboyant Maharajas of Patiala,
the Sheesh Mahal is part of the Qila Mubarak.
The then Maharaja of Patiala, Narendra Singh, built the Sheesh Mahal (in Patiala's Old
Moti Bagh) in 1847, and his much-admired aesthetic sense governed the design and
decoration of this stunning palace to a substantial extent. |
Maharaja Narendra Singh was
widely acknowledged as a patron of the arts, and the Sheesh Mahal is definitely a tribute
to his taste. It's a sprawling three-storied building, part-European and part-Mughal in
appearance, set amidst landscaped gardens supposedly modeled on Lahore's Shalimar Bagh.
Fountains, terraces and an artificial lake (near which is the Banasar Ghar, a repository
for stuffed animals), verdant lawns and flowerbeds form the backdrop for the Mahal, with
its two watchtowers at either end and a suspension bridge, modeled after the Laxman Jhoola
at Rishikesh.
The Sheesh Mahal is decorated throughout with everything from murals and exquisite
mirror-work to lovely floral designs on the walls which are reminiscent of Mughal pietra
dura. Most of the murals at the Sheesh Mahal portray themes from mythology and religion,
along with depictions of some of northern India's best classical poetry, especially that
of masters such as Surdas, Keshav Das and Bihari Lal. The decoration of the Sheesh Mahal
was entrusted to an army of skilled artisans from both Rajasthan and Kangra, and the
typical art styles of both regions are apparent in the exquisite work on display. Amongst
the Sheesh Mahal's most highly recommended displays is a series of Kangra-style miniatures
depicting the Geet Govind, the epic poem by Jaidev. Other than that, an entire section of
the palace- the section, in fact, from which the Sheesh Mahal draws its name- is decorated
with exquisitely designed glass and mirrorwork.
What is perhaps the Sheesh Mahal's greatest draw is its excellent museum, a fine
collection of antiques which give you a fabulous insight into the life and times of
Maharajas of Patiala. The vast range of artifacts on display run the gamut from costumes
and jewellery to portraits, Chinese mirrors, statues, engravings, utensils, weaponry and
more. Besides artifacts pertaining to Patiala itself, there are objets d'art from the rest
of India as well. Foremost among the galleries of the museum is the Medal Gallery, an
awesome collection of more than 3,000 medals and coins from across the world, dating from
the 12th to the 20th centuries
Best time to go
Like much of northern India, Patiala too is best
visited during the winter- between November and February, when the average temperature
hovers around 15° and 20°C, and the days are pleasant. Patiala rarely gets very hot, so
even the rest of the year isn't too bad
Getting there and around
Patiala has a domestic airport with frequent flights to
and from Delhi, Chandigarh and Amritsar, all three of which have excellent connections to
the rest of the country. Besides that, Patiala lies on Punjab's main highway network and
is linked by an ordinary and deluxe bus service to Delhi and to Punjab's main cities,
including Amritsar, Chandigarh, Jalandhar and Ludhiana. As far as trains are concerned,
although Patiala does not lie on the main line (which covers Chandigarh, Ludhiana,
Amritsar, Ferozepur and Jalandhar), you can take a train from just a vast range of cities
in northern India- and further afield- to any of the main line stations and then take a
connecting bus or train to Patiala.
Accommodation
Patiala's known more as a commercial centre than as
a tourist destination, which accounts for the fact that it's fairly low on accommodation
options. There are a few hotels (most of them targeted at the budget traveller and ranging
between two-star and three-star), guesthouses and the like. You'll find them generally
clean and comfortable, even if they're not posh, and definitely good value for money.
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