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India’s first Independence Day- on
August 15, 1947- was celebrated with the unfurling of the Indian tricolour on the ramparts
of Delhi’s Red Fort: a fitting tribute indeed to a building which has few parallels
when it comes to sheer grandeur. The largest of Delhi’s many medieval monuments, the
Red Fort is (and this is not a cliché!) one of those places where history was
made- it remained the epicentre of Indian governance for close to 200 years, and its
pavilions and gardens, till today, retain a magnificence highly reminiscent of its past
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Constructed between
1638 and 1648 by the greatest of the Mughal emperors (in terms of architectural ability,
that is), Shahjahan, the Red Fort was then known also as the Qila Mubarak (`The
Auspicious Fort’). And auspicious it was- and grand, rich, magnificent- as befitted
the castle which was to be the capital of one of the medieval world’s wealthiest
empires. Surrounded by solid walls of red sandstone, the Red Fort’s main entrance is
through the Lahore Gate- so named because it faces Lahore, in Pakistan. Beyond the gate
lies the Chhatta Chowk or Meena Bazaar, a covered market which in its heyday harboured
wares as varied as gemstones and midgets, Persian carpets and eunuchs- but is today home
to sellers of touristy souvenirs.
The main fort begins
beyond the Naubat Khana, which is the reception counter for the fort. Beyond it spreads a
vast complex of gardens and pavilions, once threaded by a canal known as the
Nahar-e-Bihisht, the Stream of Paradise. Here, in a state which is a mere shadow of its
medieval splendour, are the many palaces of the Red Fort, including the white-marble
Diwan-e-Khas which housed the legendary Peacock Throne, and the somewhat less ornate
Diwan-e-Am, built of red sandstone and once decorated with heavily gilded stucco work.
Also part of the Red Fort are the ostentatious Moti Masjid, a small but extremely ornate
mosque of white marble, constructed by the emperor Aurangzeb; the Rang Mahal, that at one
time used to be a gloriously ornate creation adorned with gold, silver, mirrors and
paint; and the Hammams, the royal baths.
All in all, the Red
Fort, though now just a rather sad echo of what it once was, still has enough to interest
a visitor- and is a must for anybody who’s keen on history.
Best time to go
The best time to visit Delhi is between October
and March, when the weather is very pleasant. During the peak of winter in January,
however, pollution causes a thick fog to envelop the city. Summers are searing hot and
dry, so avoid the city at this time- or come prepared.
The Red Fort is open
daily from Tuesdays to Sundays from sunrise to sunset, approximately 9.30 am to 4.30 pm.
Entry tickets to the fort cost Rs 10 per person (for Indians) and Rs 150 per person (for
foreigners). Entry to the fort is free on Fridays.
Getting there and
around
The gateway to India, Delhi is served by two
airports to the southwest of the centre. The Indira Gandhi International Airport -Terminal
II receives all the international flights, while the domestic airport, Indira Gandhi
Terminal I, has flights arriving from destinations within India. Delhi’s three
railway stations- New Delhi Station, Old Delhi Station and the quieter Hazrat Nizamuddin
Railway Station have a host of trains connecting the capital to almost anywhere in India.
Buses
from across northern India arrive at Delhi’s three ISBTs (Interstate Bus Terminals),
near Kashmiri Gate, at Anand Vihar and at Sarai Kale Khan.
Once you’re in
Delhi, taxis, hired cars, buses and autorickshaws are among the options for getting
around.
Accommodation
Delhi has a wide range of
accommodation, from luxurious Indian and international chains, first-class hotels and
moderately priced guesthouses to economy youth hostels and lodges. Hotels in and around
central Connaught Place cover all price ranges, while nearby Paharganj is lined with
budget hotels and lodges. It’s a lot noisier and more congested than Connaught Place,
but it can be a great money-saver, although the accommodation may not always be as clean
as you’d like it to be.
Most of the large luxury hotels are in South Delhi,
with room charges upwards of $200 per night. For a decent room in the mid range category,
try any of the guesthouses that have sprung up in residential colonies like Sundar Nagar
and West End.
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