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Once the private game reserve of
the Mysore maharajas, Bandipur, the large forest (866 sq km) south of the river Kabini is
now part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and one of WWF’s Project Tiger sites. It
neighbours the Nagarhole National Park, the Mudumalai National Park in Tamil Nadu and
Wynaad in Kerala. All together this area makes for the largest protected forest in India. Bandipur has a sizeable population of wildlife - elephant, spotted
deer and sambar, gaur and flying squirrel, four horned antelope, Nilgiri langur and sloth
bear. Amongst the reserve’s most prominent animals are its 1,900-odd elephants. |
The Royal Bengal tiger (75 in the Park)
and leopard are even more elusive here than elsewhere because the moister region that they
inhabit falls under the protected core area where casual visitors are not allowed. Mostly
dry deciduous forest with an abundance of teak on the periphery, the moister core area of
Bandipur, has large tracts of fragrant sandalwood and rosewood. However, some summers this
area too gets unbearably dry and during these times the animals migrate to the
neighbouring wetter Mudumalai Park.
Entry Requirements
All visitors to Bandipur have to get entry permits at the entrance to the park. These cost
about Rs 150 (for foreigners) and considerably less for Indians. Additional charges are
levied for cameras, vehicles, and elephant or jeep rides.
Access
The nearest railhead is Nanjangud, 55 km away, while the nearest roadhead is the town of
Gundulpet, 20 km from Bandipur. Both are, however, fairly small places, with few transport
connections to the rest of the state. A better idea, therefore, would be to arrive at
Bandipur via Mysore or Ooty.
Bandipur is 80 km from Mysore, and a
similar distance from Ooty, and takes 2 ½ hours by road. Mysore is further connected to
the rest of south India by train, while a narrow gauge train comes to Ooty from the plains
station of Mettupalayam. Mettupalayam has train connections to a number of other towns in
Tamilnadu. Once you’ve got to Mysore or Ooty, you can take a bus or hire a car or
taxi to get to Bandipur.
Private vehicles are not allowed to tour
the park, so buses abound, rumbling and roaring their way around, drowning out any chance
of seeing animals. Better options for getting around in the park are the forest department
jeeps and vans. The Forest Department also organises elephant rides of about an hour (or
more) each, which take you deeper into the forest than you’d otherwise be able to go.
At Bandipur, you can book a machan near a
watering hole for the best viewing of all.
Best time to visit
The best season depends on what you are looking for; if it’s wildlife you seek then
the hot months from March to May are when animals flock to the watering holes, and
hopefully to the ones close to your machan (but be aware: droughts also push animals into
Mudumalai); for cool comfort the months of November-February are great when the flora is
resurging after the rains; the rainy months of June-September bring the elephants to the
fore, bring the temperatures down and the metalled roads of Bandipur don’t get washed
out either.
If you are really interested in the animals, you must avoid the weekends when hordes of
visitors come down from nearby cities for the day.
Accommodation
Accommodation options in Bandipur include Forest Resthouses and KSTDC (Karnataka State
Tourism Development Corporation) cottages, besides a few private resorts and hotels. The
forest resthouses here are deluxe bungalows and also have dormitory beds; both should be
reserved in advance at the Forest Office in Bangalore or Mysore. Rooms at the resthouses
cost between Rs 300 and 400 a night.
Luxury resorts around Bandipur National
Park are more expensive but offer many more luxuries; they also arrange their own
elephant safaris and jeep rides. A double room at one of the resorts will cost about Rs
3,000 per night, which will usually include meals, wildlife safaris, and fees for cameras,
vehicles and entry.
Further information on Bandipur can be
obtained from the office of the Field Director, Project Tiger, Aranya Bhavan, Ashokpuram,
Mysore (Tel: 0821-480901) or the Chief Wildlife Warden, Aranya Bhavan, 18th Cross,
Bangalore (Tel: 3341993).
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