Belgrade is a bit of a paradox. Its streets are crowded with popcorn stalls, its nightclubs are as loud and brash as anywhere else. Alongside that, its biggest tourist attractions are  the medieval castle of  Kalemegdan and the cathedral known as St Sava Temple. The souvenir sellers on Knez Mihailova Street sell hand-knitted sweaters and lovely embroideries; the restaurants serve pizzas and local Balkan food, washed down with glasses of fiery Serbian fruit brandies. The old and the new, the East and the West. Belgrade is where they meet.

Confusing? Not really- it may take you a while to get used to Belgrade (as the tourism ministry’s advertisements say, “Serbian Cities: Love at Second Sight”), but when you get to like it- you’ll stay charmed. Belgradians have a warmth and hospitality which  is inimitable, and the return of peace- if fragile- to a city which has seen a lot of bloodshed, is obviously cause for celebration.

Dobrodosli, as the Serbians say. Welcome.