South Italy’s numero uno town is pre-eminently notorious for its pickpockets, sinfully delicious pizzas, overwhelmingly chaotic traffic and madhouse ambience. Rome, Milan, Venice, Florence – all European and neat, almost defy Italy’s reputation for delicious disorder. And if in your wanderings, you’ve wondered about that, and missed it, then Naples is the place for you. The city brims with energy and froth, and for all its disarray, it only gets more appealing the more time you spend in it.

The filth and squalor do not hide that Naples, set in the bay, has exquisite natural beauty, great year-round balmy climate and lovely palazzos and churches within which lie exquisite treasures.

‘Ashes to ashes, dust to dust’: Pompeii, the ruined city that was once the hub of Roman intrigue and holidaymaking, spreads out at the foot of Mt. Vesuvius – Europe’s only active volcano. It was buried under the ashes of the (in) famous eruption of 79 AD, even as the city of Herculaneum nearby was buried under an avalanche of mud. Pompeii and Herculaneum lie only a short distance from Naples. 

The Museo Archeologico Nazionale has an impressive sculpture collection. Pompeii treasures and those from Herculaneum are also kept here. It is open through the week.

Museo and Gallerie di Capodimonte, a museum in a royal palazzo, set amidst verdant lawns and deep woods houses an impressive collection of works by Bellini and Caravaggio. The royal apartments are a treat to view, but the Farnese Collection is a greater treat.

The 17^th century Palazzo Reale now houses the Museo di Palazzo Reale. These are ornate royal apartments and also have a Royal Chapel. The Biblioteca Nazionale has 1.5 million volumes.

Castel Nuovo built in 1286 by Charles II of Anjou has five turrets, which is a distinguishing landmark in Naples. The double-arched entrance is intriguing and the Museo Civico, inside, is waiting to be admired.

The Capella dei Tesoro di San Gennaro in the duomo has a bronze grille that is beautiful. This is supposed to protect the altar, which has the saint’s head and two vials of blood. The blood miraculously liquefies twice a year on his festa, which is celebrated.

Spaccanapoli is the east-west neighbourhood, which has all the architecture of Naples. Colourful churches, palazzis and narrow alleys will fascinate you. The churches of San Lorenzo Maggiore and San Paola Maggiore are picturesque. The Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore is next to the University of Naples. Get a peek of both while you are there.

Naples’ Capodochino Airport is 30 minutes from town. It takes the same amount of time whether you take the bus or a taxi. (Traffic snarls – Ah! Those great levellers!) Buses leave the airport every 15 minutes and work out more than 10 times cheaper than cabs. Trains connect Stazione Centrale of Naples with all the major destinations in Italy. You can opt for ferries from Molo Angioino and Molo Beverello. These are frequent to Capri and Palermo, Sicily. Buses, trams and Metropolitana or the subway are popular for getting around in the city and you can use the Giranapoli tickets of one and a-half hours or full day tickets for any of these modes of transportation. Taxis can be hired and cars and bikes rented for various sojourns in and around the city. 

Tourist Offices are EPT (Tel.081268779) at Stazione Centrale. They have a branch at P. dei Martiri. They help you in looking for a hotel as well as for ferries. But they do have long lines! 

P. Garibaldi is full of hotels. But beware of people posing as hotel representatives. Most are genuine. Don’t give your passport till you have seen the room and agreed on the price. A (HI) hostel (Tel. 0817612346) is available, but reserve ahead. Breakfast is included.With pizzas being the essence of Naples, it is not hard to find out, which is the favourite food of the locals. The traditional pizzas include the marinara, which has tomato, oregano, garlic and oil and margherita, which again has tomato, but includes mozzarella and basil, instead of oregano, garlic and oil. 

From Naples there are three places you can add to your itinerary. These are Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mt. Vesuvius. In AD 79, Mount Vesuvius erupted burying the city of Herculaneum (Ercolano) in mud, and Pompeii in ashes. 

A fantastic picture of Roman life in stark clarity revealed itself after the excavations at Pompeii. It is remarkably well preserved. The Forum used to be the civic, commercial and religious centre of Pompeii. The House of the Faun, is where a bronze dancing faun and the Alexander mosaic were found. Frescoes are on display at the House of the Vetii.

The complex’s best preserved villa is the Villa of the Mysteries, for which you must first take a look at what, after 2000 years, still commands a big draw – a little brothel. Across is the amphitheatre – the oldest standing one in the world.

To get to the site, take a train from Naples or Sorrento to ‘Pompeii Scavi/ Villa dei Mistert’. The tourist office is at P. Porta Marina Inferiore 12. 

Herculaneum has not been excavated much. What little has been done, is so neatly done and preserved that it seems as if one is walking inside someone’s house! The site is 500 m downhill from the "Ercolano" stop on the Circumvesuviana Line train. 

Experts feel that it is safe to visit the crater of the Mt. Vesuvius, and buses and taxis will take you right up to the crater of this once volcanic mountain. Scientists say that Volcanoes erupt every thirty years, though the Vesuvius last erupted on the 31^st of March, 1944. 

In an emergency call the following number on the telephone: 113, Ambulance: 0817520696, Police: 113 or 0817941111, Carabinieri: 112. (They speak English). 

For detailed country and visitor information, see Italy.