Nikaia, as Nice was known when the Greeks founded it, has lived through so many civilizations that it is now a merry mix of Greek, Italian, British and French styles. Nice offers the visitor a view of an old town with serpentine alleys, an opera house, museums and markets thriving on local and tourist trade. Nice sparkles as the undisputed unofficial capital of the Cote d’Azur, with a population of 350,000 and its own university.

Even though Nice lacks even a beach worth its name, the palm-lined boulevards and soothing sea breezes coupled with the irresistible affability of Nicois (Nice dwellers) more than compensate. In the second half of February, the locals and tourists alike welcome the arrival of spring with wild revelry in a Carnaval. If visiting at this time, prepare to let your hair down!

Built in 1815, Place Massena is a fine square leading to the Promenade des Anglais or the English Promenade built by the English community in 1824. The Place Massena offers a fine view of the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels). The Palais Massena (Massena Palace) is a museum of city history where, among other displays, one can see the tiara worn by Josephine, Napoleon’s queen. Promenade des Anglais leads east to Le Chateau, with the remains of an 11^th century cathedral. Le Chateau by itself is a flowery park on the hillside.

The city’s oldest church is the Eglise St-Martin on pl. St Augustin. The Cathedrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas near the train station is gorgeous, and was a favourite retreat for Russian nobility in the old days. The Cours Saleya flower market and the narrow streets of old Nice are really the prettiest parts of town. In the market, stop in to see the 18^th century Chapelle de la Misericorde that houses a remarkable ornate Baroque interior with decoration.

Nice has excellent museums, of which the Musee des Beaux-Arts exhibits works of famous artists and sculptors like Monet, Fragonard and Rodin. The Musee d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain, has on display French and American art pieces from 1960 to the present day, including work by Warhol and Lichtenstein.

Jazz and non-Jazz players worldwide perform at Nice’s Jazz Festival in mid July at the Parc et Arenes de Cimiez, near the Musee Matisse.

 If its down the self- drive route, then trains go to and from Paris, Marseille, and Cannes at the Gare SNCF Nice-Ville (Tel. 0492148162). Buses are available to and from Cannes and Monaco. The Sunbus is a sensible option for moving between the train station and the beach.

The tourist office is beside the train station. It gives essential maps and schedules (Tel. 0493870707; fax. 0493168516). To sleep well at Nice make your reservations in either the many hotels or the International hostels beforehand. Food in Nice is never a problem. At best you get a wide choice of seafood, Asian cuisine and Italian delicacies. You can even stock up your larder from any of the three supermarkets there.

Currency exchange is best done at Cambio, 17 av. Thiers. There is no commission. This is opposite the train station. Emergency: Tel. 17. Medical emergency: Tel. 15. Police: Tel. 0493172222. The pharmacy is at 7 rue Massena (Tel. 0493877894) and is open all day and night.

For more detailed country and visitor information, see France.