If you ever had a preconceived notion of a romantic, medieval France, then this would be it! The effects of mass tourism have not yet usurped Lyon as it continues with its traditional lifestyle. Its unspoiled countryside and sumptuous cuisine add to the awesome beauty of its medieval abbeys and its stately chateaux.

One of the most fascinating cities of France, Lyon has clung to its old roots and still possesses old cobblestone streets and a maze of courtyards that are fascinating to explore.

Lyon once held the place and position held by China over silk in latter ages. Four hundred years of wealth from the silk industry helped the town make exquisite carvings, sheltered courtyards and ornate turrets. By the 18^th century, 28,000 looms were still in operation in the Croix-Rousse district. In the present day, although Lyon no longer produces silk, it is one of the financial centres of France. Friendlier than Paris and more relaxed, Lyon today offers the visitor contemporary attractions like its bustling art scene.

Nine arrondissements or districts make up Lyon and it has a population of 1.5 million. Two rivers cross the city running north to south. They are the Saone, which is in the west, and the Rhone, which is in the east. The climatic conditions of Lyon differ from the northern and southern parts of France. While the north of France experiences coldish winters and unpredictable though pleasant summers, the south has a Mediterranean climate including quite mild winters and hot summers but with sunshine most of the year. Lyon is in central France and seems to have received the worst of both worlds - it has very cold winters and awfully hot summers.

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) on the western bank of the river Saone, has Fourviere Hill and its basilica overlooking it. Lively cafes and medieval townhouses coexist to line the streets of vieux Lyon. Outstanding features of the townhouses are the traboules –decorated tunnels. Traboules lead from the street through a maze of courtyards and are well worth wandering through.

The Cathedrale St-Jean is a 12^th century cathedral is suffused with a romantic aura, being the place where Marie de Medici and Henri IV met and married in 1600. Northwest of the cathedral is the Fourviere Hill, which was the hub of activity in Roman Lyon. A rose-lined chemin de la Rosarie leads you to the hill.

The Esplanade Fourviere from the top of the hill affords an aerial view of the city and a model of the cityscape points out landmarks. Behind the Esplanade is the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere. After an eye-catching array of multicoloured mosaics, gilded pillars and detailed carvings, you head for the Musee Gallo-Romain where you can see another eye-catching display of mosaics, helmets, swords, and jewellery.  The Parc Archeologique is the 2000-year old Theatre Romain and the Odeon. A two-month summer festival is still conducted here. The Presqu’ile is a lively area and statues and fountains in impressive squares greet you there. The heart of the area is place Bellecour, opposite which is the town hall or the Hotel de Ville. It is a superb structure built in the 17^th century.

The Musee des Beaux-Arts opposite the town hall has a collection of works by Spanish and Dutch masters, a collection of French paintings and an Italian Renaissance wing. It also boasts of a sculpture garden. If you want to see a superb collection of silk and embroidery head for the Musee Historique des Tissus. It has an extraordinary range of silk cloth. This store of embroidery and silk is at the Croix-Rousse district, which used to be the heart of the silk industry. If you are inclined toward political history, then the Centre d’Histoire de la Resistance et de la Deportation has documents, photos and films of the Lyon-based resistance to the Nazis, to interest you. Modern Lyon is the headquarters for Interpol's world headquarters. North of it is the Parc de la Tete d’Or with a zoo, botanical garden and an extraordinary rose garden.

The Theatre des Celestins is the major theatre in Lyon. The Opera on pl. de la Comedie, sells last minute student tickets while the Cinema Opera and Le Cinema show black-and-white oldies.

Festivals in Lyon include the Fete de la Musique on June 21, and the Bastille Day celebrations on July 14. Modern-dance performers from around the globe perform at Maison de Lyon on even-numbered years, for example – the year 2000. (Tel. 0472410000). A two-month summer festival held in the ancient Theatre Romain features pop and classical concerts and plays. It is known as Les Nuits de Fourviere. If you are there around that time, pick up your tickets at the FNAC shop on rue de la Republique.

There are flights to Aeroport Lyon-Satolas, which is about 25 km east of Lyon. Satobuses shuttle to Perrache, Part-Dieu, and the main Metro stops of Jean Mace, Grange-Blanche and Mermoz Pinel. There are two main stations in Lyon. Perrache is more central, because it is between the Saone and Rhone rivers. Curiously, however, more trains stop at Part-Dieu. Several trains also head out to and come in from Paris, Geneva, Marseille and Nice.

On the bottom floor of the Perrache train station is the bus station, with the international bus terminal across the hall. Public transportation is good and a full-day Ticket Liberte is good for unlimited public transport. These tickets are available at the tourist office. This is at Pl. Bellecour, in the pavilion (Tel.0472776969; Fax. 0478420432).

During a workweek, it is rather difficult to find lodging. Weekends are better.  High standard hotels as well as several inexpensive hotels in a cluster near Perrache. An International Hostel is at 41/45 Montee du Chemin Neuf, 5eme (Tel. 0478150550; Fax. 0478150551). Camping Dardilly which is 10 km away from Lyon, is open the year round and will provide a tent and a car (Tel.0478356455). Off-season here is actually July and August. Some really warm clothes will be the need of the hour in winter, though the summer can be pretty warm. The city has a reputation for being the culinary capital of Western Europe. You can gorge on andouillettes, a local treat. These are sausages made out of cow’s intestines. Finish your dinner with torte tatin, which is more like an inverted apple pie, or have chocolates covered in marzipan called cocons. Plenty of ethnic restaurants will offer a tasty fare to tickle your taste buds. Most of them are clustered off rue de la Republique.

Telephone numbers for various emergency services are: Emergencies - 17, Police – 0478422656, Medical emergency – 15. Medical assistance is available at Hopital Edourd Herriot and the more central Hopital Hotel-Dieu. Currency exchange and Internet are available at the post office (Tel.0472406522).

For detailed country and visitor information, see France.