Yerevan deserves mention not only because it is the Armenian capital but also because it is one of the oldest cities in the world that has been inhabited for centuries at a stretch.  It is located in the shadow of Ararat, where biblically Noah’s Ark first landed on escaping the Flood. The city’s 20 odd museums document its evolution.

 A city of 1.2 million people, Central Yerevan is almost circular with mountains along it’s circumference. The streets form a grid though a very odd one and are directed to Lenin Square – it was indentifiable by the statue of the leader that stood here – it’s now called Republic Square. The square is where you’ll find the State Historical Museum, hotels, the central post office and a number of shops and foreign banks –quite a complete package for the visitor.

The square is also the cultural hosting ground – commemorations, anniversaries, New Year and now Independence Day  – the place is choc-a-bloc with thousands of fervent Armenians. Also remember the names of streets -  Ulitsa Abovyana and Ulitsa Machtots – they are the two lifelines of Yerevan Central and where you will find all of the facilities you need most.

The town’s eastern side is ringed with hemisphere shaped parkland. The number of statutes and monuments (though undeniably these are aesthetic marvels), lining the streets is amazing. 

You’ll find a humungus likeness of Vardan Mamikonyan, an Armenian hero since the days of the Zoroastrian Persian rule.  Sasuntsi Davit (David of Sasoun), seated majestically on horseback is another denizen of Armenia’s epic past. The Memorial Monument of Armenian genocide, is a destination you must visit, if only to remind yourself of the ugliness that humans are capable of. The memorial is dedicated to the 1.5 million who were killed by the Turks in their campaign of 1915. Holding its head high is the Opera House – proud awardee of the Grand Prix for Architectural Design in 1937. Today you can hear the Armenian Philharmonic Orchestra playing in its precincts.  Intended for the same musical sentiment, The Komitas Chamber Music Hall isn’t as pleasing a sight. Soviet Architecture was at it’s ugliest in Armenia, some might disagree but will concede that the contrast between Armenian Heritage Architecture and 'Soviet Brutal' architecture school, made the latter lose favour with most. Yet the Komitas Chamber Music Hall remains one of the finest performance halls in the country and gets it’s name from the famed Armenian composer and clergyman who preserved Armenian folk songs for posterity.  The homes of many Armenian artistes are now open to the public.

A visit to Artashat  is interesting as it is the site of an early Armenian capital of the  2nd century BC. This is also the site of the Khor Viran Monastery – mythology says Gregory the Illuminator –the prisoner who cured and converted King Tiridates III was confined in a well at the Monastery. If you want to visit an ongoing excavation site, visit nearby Dvin. This too was once the capital (around 340 AD). Artashat is 30km (18.6mi) south of Yerevan and buses travel between the two cities.

Echmiadzin is a quiet city that bears a holy symbolism for the country and is only a 20 km bus ride to the west of Yerevan. The Orthodox Cathedral, in Echmiadzin, remains the most revered and important historic site here. This is also home to the Supreme Catholicos who are the leaders of the Armenian Orthodox Church.

Sevan:  Located 50 km north east of the capital, trains between Yerevan-Tsovagyukh pass Sevan thrice daily. The settlement shares its name with the Lake that lies along its south eastern side. The lake is the biggest in all of Transcaucasia at 1900m above sea level, it once covered nearly 5% of Soviet Armenia. Ever since the Armenian’s began harnessing water from the Razdan River that feeds the lake, for hydroelectricity and irrigation the lake has shrunk. The only good that came of this was that monuments, historical buildings as old as 2000 years that had been submerged when the lake rose were exposed. The river even today is the source of the most delicious trout in Armenia. In Sevan you could visit two churches, the last mementos of a 9th century monastery.  

Getting There: Getting to Yerevan is not easy and takes a bit of planning. There are flights from Moscow and a weekly one from Athens. The train ride from Moscow is arduous - it takes two whole days, but it gets you there! 

Accommodation: You could count the number of hotels in Yerevan on your finger tips – but what there is, is centrally located and easy to access. The free economy has seen an increase in the number of smaller and private guest houses around the city. Finding one you like is a bit of a trial and error operation. What is more definitely enjoyable is the style with which people seem to shrug off their worries and hang about the pavement coffee shops or even dress up to step out if only from the first floor to the street below. You’ll need help with menus, only a few eateries have them in English.  

For detailed country and visitor information, see Armenia.