Quetzaltenango, or Xela as it is commonly called, is a popular tourist destination in Guatemala, more for its location at a junction of roads coming from the capital, than for its sights. This is not to say that the city is not attractive, it is. Its neoclassical buildings, lovely parks, colourful and bustling market and scenic countryside ensure that the city ranks high on the ‘must see’ itinerary.

The name Quetzaltenango is derived from the Quiche word ‘xelaju’ meaning ‘under the ten’, referring to the belief that the mountain peaks surrounding the town are home to ten Gods. Xela still holds on to much of its colonial legacy – the layout of the town, the dominance of neoclassical architecture – all reflect is colonial history.

The centre of the town is the Parque Centroamerica. Most of Xela’s important buildings are lined around the plaza such as the tourist office and the offices of the city officials. The buildings by themselves are impressive, irrespective of what they house. The Casa de la Cultura on the south side of the plaza houses the Historical Museum where among other items ranging from Mayan artefacts to stuffed animals and native costumes is a display of soda bottles through the ages.

If you’re looking for more strenuous activity other than strolling through the streets of the city and admiring the sights, trek the Volcán Santa Maria that is about 10 km southwest of the city. The ascent is tough but is worth the effort. It is considered one of the easiest climbs in Guatemala but if you’re attempting to hike your way up, you should be in great shape or you’ll find yourself puffing within the first half an hour. You can opt for a guided tour to the top or do it yourself. There are marked trails that lead to the summit.

Xela is known for its Minerva Market, where you’ll get anything from recorded tapes to vegetables. The market located right next to the bus terminal is the most important commercial centre in the western highlands. If its handicrafts you’re after, make sure you’re in Xela on the first Sunday of the month when the plaza is converted into a bustling handicraft market. Even if shopping for handicrafts does not rank high on your itinerary, a visit to the market is recommended as the trade of goods is accompanied by live musical performances.

A dip in one of the steaming sulphur spring pools is one of the major attractions of Xela. The region around the town has a number of such springs – Fuentes Georginas, Aguas Amargas and Los Vahos barely 15 – 20 mins away from the town. There are a number of bathhouses near the town of Almolonga that is situated on the outskirts of the city. El Recreo is the best.

Zunil is one of the most popular getaways from Quetzaltenango. The scenic town is snuggled cosily in valley surrounded by precipitous, lush green hills. Besides its natural beauty and picnic perfect sights, the main attraction of the town is its church. An impressive white structure, the church has a beautifully crafted ornate façade. The town’s attachment to the notorious Maximom also known as San Simon has also gone a long way in ensuring the town’s popularity. Maximom commands a wide fan following in the town – each year on the 1^st of November, a shrine dedicated to Maximom is established in a local house. For the localities, he is holy and his offerings vary from alcohol to cigarettes. Zunil is barely 15 to 20 km from Xela. A number of buses run connect them.

There are a number of picturesque towns around Quetzaltenango that are worth visiting if you’re in the region. Some of them are – Salcaja, Cantel, San Cristobal Totonicapan, San Francisco El Alto and Momostenango.

Xela is well connected to other towns and cities by buses.  There are several buses that cover the four and half hour road journey between Guatemala City and Xela. Be warned as bus schedules are erratic and they are never punctual. In the city public buses traverse the city roads. There are a number of car rental companies where you can hire cars.

Accommodation is available in all shapes, sizes and for every budget. The prices may be a little higher than they are in other regions but it’s not expensive. There is a vast variety in terms of cuisine and prices – local as well as fast food, expensive and budget.

The lively atmosphere of the city dulls out by the evening. If it’s a quiet chat, live music and a drink that’s on your mind, there are a number of places you can visit. If you want to shake a leg, there are a couple of modest nightclubs you can visit. On the whole the atmosphere in clubs and cafes is rather informal and relaxed.

The best season to visit is the between mid – December to mid – April This is also the busiest season.  Carry cool cotton casuals and a sweater for the evenings.

For detailed country and visitor information, see Guatemala.