| This is
definitely the most weird and wayout township in Australia with a landscape that is more a
moonscape than of the earth. Its small population of over 40 nationalities attracted
by the lure of opals live in dugout homes that are defunct mineshafts. |
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The reason:
inhospitable climatic conditions that can go as high as 50 degrees in the summer and below
freezing in the winter. If you're wondering why 3000 people live in this miserable hole at
all, you won't have to look far. Coober Pedy
in aboriginal is 'white fellows hole in the Ground. It is the Opal Capital of
Australia. Located on Stuart Highway, 535 km from the nearest big town, this dried out,
dusty town is full of mineshafts; a lot of which have been
converted into homes. The rest are still
around so be careful or you'll find yourself at the bottom of a used opal mine!
Thats not
the only thing you may have to watch out for. The
town can get a bit bomb happy.
In the past 13 years the police station has been bombed twice, a restaurant bombed,
mining equipment worth thousands of dollars blown up and recently two police cars went up
in flames! Nevertheless, this incredibly
weird town, (which was quite aptly the locale of the film Mad Max III), has friendly
people and unforgettable sights. You also
have a choice of many Opal Shops to choose from to buy your very own
stone. Or maybe youll just get lucky on
a fossicking trip.
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The most unusual sight in
the town is the dugout homes. Some are so beautifully cut, they are a
must see. Many homes charge an entry fee. |
Ever since a small boy
discovered opals here in 1915, the towns
main occupation is opal mining. People of
more than 40 nationalities have made Coober Pedy their home. You can go fossicking around in any opal field in t he northeast corner of town or go
through the waste dumps, a pastime that is called noodling.
In the absence of big mining operators, small time miners can make a killing if
they find opals somewhere. To top it all there are still lots of fields that have not been
dug.
Other places to see are the
Old Timers Mine, which has lots of displays, and the Umoona Opal
Mine & Museum in the town centre. The
documentary they show is great, and on display are lots of
dugout homes and the history of Opal Mining. Underground
Potteries and Crocodile Harrys are good places to visit.
Named after a Latvian baron who emigrated to Australia after WWII and spent 13 years
hunting crocodiles, this dugout home called Crocodile Harrys is amazing and has even
been shown in Mad Max III and Ground Zero.
For those buying Opals try
to go to reputable outlets, and avoid those giving huge discounts because that means its
overpriced or bad quality.
Around
Coober Pedy don't miss out on the Breakaways
Reserve which has lots of stark hills and landscape, the most interesting of which
is the white-and-yellow formation called the Castle.
It was featured in Mad Max III and Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. You can drive around in the area and go to Dog
Fence and Moon Plain. Any tour operator in
Coober Pedy will give you information about the Breakaways Reserve.
Getting there:
Flying by Kendell Airlines from Adelaide is the usual route, especially if time is your
concern. Otherwise you can take a bus from Adelaide, Alice Springs or Kulgera. Drive down
the Stuart Highway on a sealed track from Port Augusta, or brave the rougher track via
Oodnadatta. Check the By Road section in Around & About,Australia,for driving
tips. Getting around Coober Pedy is either by walking or hiring bikes.
Accommodation:
For such a small town there are surprisingly lots of different choices From top end
hotels to midrange motels to B& Bs and hostels to Caravan Parks. Coober Pedy caters well to the thousands of
tourists who arrive every year. Remember some places are actually basement accommodation
and built underground, so check out this fact when booking.
D & E: There arent too many restaurants and not many economical
ones. But the Italian Miners Club and some
Greek Places are good and not too expensive. Takeaways and coffee lounges on the main
street are reasonable.
The
main tourist office is on Hutchison St and Underground Books on Post Office Hill Rd. is a
fantastic source of information on the Outback. There are lots of tours operating from
Coober Pedy that'll take you to the rounds of the mines and the dugout homes etc. The most interesting and offbeat one is the 600 km
ride by the mail truck through the round trip of the one or two remote communities in the
Outback.
For state and visitor information, see South Australia.
For country information, see Australia. |