The Annapurna Circuit is probably the favourite trekking route in Nepal. It goes right around the massif and rewards the intrepid traveller with a variety of terrain, flora and magnificent views.

The highlight of the trip is the crossing of the Thorung-La Pass which, at 5416 metres, may not be everybody’s cup of tea but on the Annapurna itself, there’s a way out of this. The three major well-travelled routes on this mountain are the Annapurna circuit, the Jomosom Trek, the Annapurna Sanctuary.

The Jomosom route passes lower than the Circuit and this, coupled with the fact that Jomosom can be reached by air, makes it an easier trip. Magnificent in it’s own right, the Jomosom course runs along the rushing waters of the Kali Gandaki. The Kali Gandaki valley is the world’s deepest gorge, and the whoosh of gushing waters echoes off no less than Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, the 7^th and 11^th tallest mountains in the world.

For fantastic views of the cloud piercing Himalayas, there’s not a much better location than the Annapurna Sanctuary. Surprisingly hospitable even though it’s in the middle of the great mountain, the Sanctuary encloses a protected forest zone.

The Annapurna Circuit trek circumnavigates the massif in 150 long miles. It spans an amazing range of terrain and habitat, taking you from fairly bustling Gorkha villages and one-stop teashop single-hut ‘towns’, to a sweeping 5416 metres at the Thorung La Pass. The direction to take is the one from Manang (3499 metres) to Muktinath, whereby the part that forms the “Jomosom Trek” comes up at the end of your circuit. There are several reasons for this: the Pass is easier to tackle this way, most people take this direction so you won’t ‘head’ into a rash of fellow trekkers and, while Manang is a geared-for-trekking town where you may stock up on supplies, Muktinath is a place of pure pastoral bliss.

If you are attempting the Jomosom trek on the Annapurna massif, then things could be really easy. There are flights between the busy mountain town of Jomosom (2713 metres) and the scenic lake town of Pokhara and many choose to take their time with the trek one way, zipping by air the other. Jomosom however, need hardly be the final destination of the trip. It’s an administrative centre so it’s well stocked with permit issuing officials, foreign exchange providers, a hospital, a police check post and a post office. But press further, and you could go up to what many describe as one of the most fascinating windswept weather-beaten places on earth. The Muktinath Valley (3802 metres) besides being a holy place for Hindus and Buddhists is breathtakingly beautiful. The sky culls from its repertoire the deepest clearest blue, the hills are alternately dabbed with patches of sienna, fresh green and cool grey, the mountains loom up rugged, white, and amidst this, tiny Tibetan settlements just do their thing!

 (Two days northwards and then a detour to the west will bring you to the rugged kingdom of Mustang. Now a part of Nepal, this former Tibetan kingdom is windswept but people have been living here for centuries. A special permit is required for Mustang)

The Annapurna Sanctuary is a fast trek up the Modi Khola valley. Stone steps in the mountain wind past the affluent Gorkha villages of Ghandruk (2012 metres) and Chomro (2050 metres). Both have pharmacies, shops selling trekking gear, comfortable hotels, and provide you the opportunity to stock up on supplies. When you reach the Machhpuchhare Base Camp (3703 metres), you’ll be at the edge of the Sanctuary. The name is misleading actually because it isn’t on the Machhpuchhare mountain at all. Machhapuchhare is strictly out of bounds for trekkers being sacred and extremely avalanche prone. It’s only as you get away from here and clear out of the valley that the stunning views unfold. Annapurna Base Camp (4130 metres) reveals the full-blown picture: the Himalayas standing tall, up-close and personal.

The 21 day long Annapurna Circuit takes off at Besisahar, whilst the Jomosom and Annapurna Sanctuary treks begin at Birethanti. Both are within striking distance of Pokhara. The hike to the Sanctuary takes between 7 to 10 days and depending on whether you fly or not, the Jomosom hike can take a week -ten days or two weeks. It is advisable to trek into Jomosom rather than fly in so your body may acclimatize naturally.

The best way to the Annapurna is from Pokhara. There are many flights everyday between Kathmandu and this beautiful lake town, which with its tour operators, gear-rental stores and battalions of Annapurna aficionados is just the place you want to be before your trek gets underway.

For detailed country and visitor information, see Nepal.