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The Hindu god Ayyappan is one of southern India’s most revered deities.
Known also as Dharmasastha, Hariharan, Manikanta, Ayyanar and Bhoothnath, Ayyapan is
worshipped in a number of shrines across south India. At Kulathupuzha, he is worshipped as
a child; at Achankovil in conjunction with his consorts, Pushkala and Poorna; and at
Sabarimala as an ascetic, a celibate meditating in solitude for the benefit of all
mankind. Sabarimala lies in the Sahyadris- the Western Ghats, in Kerala. Situated at a
height of about 3,000 ft, the shrine is one of Hinduism’s most important pilgrimage
centers. |
Every year,
between November and January, thousands of Hindu pilgrims converge on Sabarimala, after a
rigorous 41 days of abstinence and penance. Devotees, each with a sacred irumudi- a cloth
bag which contains pooja items such as coconuts, dry fruit, sandalwood paste, turmeric and
the like, set off on the trek up to the shrine, chanting all the way.
Sabarimala holds
the rather dubious distinction of being the only Hindu temple in India where women are not
allowed. A number of feminist organizations have tried to persuade the Temple Board the
revoke this age-old tradition, but to no avail. Many reasons are cited by the board in
support of the decree; these include the 41-day penance imposed on pilgrims, the arduous
trek up to the shrine, and the fact that the Ayyappan worshipped at Sabarimala is supposed
to be a celibate hermit. Be as it may, women- and girls- between the ages of 10 and 50
cannot even enter the forest around Sabarimala.
When to go
The pilgrimages to Sabarimala begin in November and last up to January. This is when the
temple is inundated with devotees from all across India, and everything- from
accommodation to flowers and coconuts- is at a premium.
Throughout the
year, monthly poojas are held at the temple, usually within the first week of each month.
The shrine, therefore, is open only for the first five days of every month and for the
pilgrimage season, between mid-November and mid-January.
Getting
There
Kerala’s capital, Thiruvananthpuram, is the most convenient base from which to get to
Sabarimala. The airports closest to Sabarimala are at Thiruvananthpuram (149 km from
Erumeli) and Ernakulam /Cochin ( 78 km). Both have frequent connections to other major
airports in India.
The nearest train stations are Chengannur (62 km from Erumeli), Thiruvalla and
Changanasseri.
From Thiruvananthpuram, Kottayam, Ernakulam or any of the other railheads, you can get a
bus to Chalakayam, Vandiperiyar or Erumeli - the three starting points for the trek up to
Sabarimala.
The Chalakayam is
the easiest and the shortest route- it’s just 8 km from here to Sabarimala.
The Vandiperiyar route starts along the Kottayam Kumili road, about 13kms short of
Sabarimala.
Erumeli is the most popular route, and it is believed that the god himself followed this
path to the summit of the hill. It’s also the most arduous, as it’s all of 61 km
long- and winds through forested hills. All along the Erumeli Route are shrines, at
Kalaketti, Inchipparakota, Karimala and Pampa. The Pampa river is considered as sacred as
the Ganga, and devotees believe that a dip in the river can wash away the sins of a
lifetime.
From Pampa, the 6
km trek up to the Sabarimala shrine culminates in the `18 steps’- the Patinettampadi-
a flight of steps which lead up to the shrine, where pilgrims are rewarded with a darshan
of the deity.
Accommodation
All along the route to Sabarimala are a range of accommodation facilities, both operated
by the Travancore Devaswom Board as well as state-run. The PWD, the Forest Department, the
Water Authority and a few other government departments have guesthouses, but nearly all
are off-limits to anybody who doesn’t qualify as a `VIP’. Most pilgrims end up
staying at the guesthouses of the Travancore Devaswom Board, at Pampa and Sannidhanam.
Room tariffs are between Rs 100 to 600 per night; accommodation can be booked by writing
to the Devaswom Commissioner, Travancore Devaswom Board, Nathankode, Thiruvananthpuram,
Kerala. It’s essential to book rooms in advance, especially at the time of the annual
pilgrimage.
Further information and assistance can be obtained from the Pilgrim Centre (Tel:
91-473-5592042), the Devaswom Manager (Tel:91-473-5592038 or 91-473-5593442 ) or the
Devaswom Commissioner (Tel: 91-473-5592004). The Ayyappa Seva Sangam (Tel: 91-473-5592043
at Sabarimala and 91-473-5593409 at Pampa) can also provide information.
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