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9 km east of Panaji, along the Mandovi river,
lies the town of Old Goa, once the centre of power for the Portuguese in India and the Far
East. Old Goa was virtually abandoned in 1843, when the capital was shifted to Panaji. All
that remains now is a handful of cathedrals and churches, a monastery and a convent. But,
deserted though this area may be, it isn’t forgotten- and here, among the ruins of an
empire, lie some of India’s greatest churches- and among the best known of them is
the Basilica of Bom Jesus. The Basilica is a World Heritage monument, and next to it is
the Professed House- the `Casa Professa’ of the Jesuits. An impressive edifice with a
façade of black granite, the Professed House was built in the late 16th century and is
linked to the Basilica by a colonnaded arcade. |
Renowned throughout the
Catholic world, the 16th century cathedral of Bom Jesus (`Good Jesus’ or `Infant
Jesus’) has beautifully gilded altars and is decorated with frescoes and inlay work.
The church was India’s first Minor Basilica, and is considered one of the
best examples of baroque architecture in India. It’s an opulent structure which
incorporates white marble, and is best known for the tomb of St Francis Xavier, which it
houses. The embalmed body of the saint, who died in 1552, was gifted to the church by
Cosimo de Medici III, Grand Duke of Tuscany. Today, the body lies in an airtight
glass coffin positioned in a silver casket crafted by a 17th century Florentine jeweller.
Till some years back, the
body of St Xavier was ritually exposed- in its coffin- once every decade, to allow
pilgrims to view it. The saint is believed to have miraculous powers of healing, and
pilgrims would come from all over the country to offer prayers. The prayers and the
pilgrimages still continue, although church authorities have decided not to display the
body any more, to guard against deterioration.
When to go
Goa is best visited in the winter, between October and March, when the weather’s
pleasant. December, especially, is a good time to visit the Basilica of Bom Jesus; special
ceremonies to honour St Xavier are held on December 3.
The Basilica is open to
visitors from 9 am to 6.30 pm on weekdays and from 10 am to 6.30 pm on Sundays. Masses are
held at 8 am and 9.15 am on Sunday and at 7 am and 8 am on weekdays.
Getting There
Goa, thanks to its popularity as a tourist destination, has plenty of connections to the
rest of India. The domestic airport at Dabolim (30 km from Panaji) has frequent flights
from Mumbai, Chennai, Delhi, Bangalore and Kochi, besides chartered flights from overseas.
The two railway stations- at Vasco da Gama and Margao- also have a number of trains
arriving at Goa from the rest of the country. In addition to that, there are bus networks
which connect the state to other cities and towns in Western and Southern India.
From Panaji- or any other
place in Goa, for that matter- there are excellent bus connections to Old Goa.
Alternately, you can hire a car or take a taxi, including the interesting motorbike taxis.
Accommodation
The possibilities for accommodation in Goa are virtually limitless, stretching all the way
from snazzy resorts and upmarket hotels to affordable guesthouses, cottages and local
inns. Budget options include dormitories and hostels, or homestays, which can be a great
way to see Goa up close. The only thing to keep in mind is that Goa’s immense
popularity makes accommodation scarce during the peak season; book well in advance.
More information on the
Basilica and Goa is available at the office of the Goa Tourism Development Corporation
(Tel:0832 - 2225583 / 2225715) in Panaji. |
