 |
`Cow's Ear'- for that's what `Gokarna'
actually means- is a mundane way of describing a place as pretty as this. Named for the
ear-shaped confluence of two rivers which marks Gokarna, the place is a small town, known
more as a pilgrimage centre than as a beach. Which is a pity, really- because Gokarna,
with its coconut palms, its blue seas and clean sands, is perfect for an idyllic vacation
by the sea. Situated along the Karwar coast, in northern Karnataka, Gokarna is
beach-utopia if you're looking for minimal luxury but maximum privacy, with only the sun,
the surf and the seagulls for company. |
A somnolent one-street town consisting almost entirely of
wooden houses, Gokarna is in close proximity to four beaches. Of these, Kudle, a
kilometre-long stretch of white sand fringed by palm trees, is the nearest; just about 20
minutes' walk from Gokarna. Half an hour further from Kudle is Om beach, so named because
it's shaped like the auspicious `om' symbol. Gokarna's two other beaches- Paradise and
Half-Moon- are smaller and lesser known, but equally great for a bit of sunbathing and
swimming.
All of Gokarna's beaches remain pretty empty, except for the odd `in-the-know' traveller,
the hippy who's tired of Goa, or the many pilgrims who come to Gokarna for `darshan' at
the Shiv Temple. Gokarna, like nearby Udipi, is a sacred place for Hindus, who believe it
to be the place where Shiva emerged from the earth after a long penance in the
netherworld. The town's main shrine is the Mahabaleshwar Temple, home to a very holy
lingam that was reputedly rescued by Shiva's elephant- headed son, Ganesh.
Best time to visit
Gokarna is pretty much a round-the-year destination, although you'd be well advised to
avoid it during the monsoon, when heavy rain can make it muddy and messy. In
February-March, festivities mark Maha Shivratri, and along with other celebrations,
there's a colourful procession in Gokarna. January and February, when the weather's good,
are anyway a great time to visit the town.
Access
Gokarna is 60 km south of Karwar and 7 hours from the city of Mangalore. One of the best
ways of getting to this town is aboard the Konkan Railway, which traverses the prettiest
parts of India's western coast. Konkan Railway trains pass through Gokarna Road (10 km
from the town), Ankola (25 km), or Karwar (23 km). From either of these railheads, a bus
can be taken to Gokarna.
Gokarna has good bus connections to a number of towns within Karnataka and along the west
coast; Goa, for instance, is only about 5 hours away.
Accommodation
Gokarna's still fairly undiscovered as far as the beach crowd goes (although Hindu
pilgrims flocking to the temple come here in substantial numbers). Consequently,
accommodation options are neither exciting nor extensive. There are hotels- mainly budget
or mid-range-, guesthouses and beach huts available, but quality can vary considerably.
Expect to pay anywhere from Rs 20 to Rs 600, depending upon how much you're willing to
rough it out. Among the best places around is the KSTDC hotel with accomodation starting
from Rs 105 for one person. Along Kudle beach are a number of beach huts, all very basic-
you'll even have to arrange for your own bedding.
Eateries, like accommodation, are fairly rudimentary, but you'll invariably find good
local grub, including seafood. A few beach shacks serve croissants, sandwiches and
no-frills Western food.
|
