Tucked
away in the south-eastern corner of Himachal Pradesh lies the Sangla Valley, part of the
region of Kinnaur. The Valley, also known as the Baspa Valley, has been called the `most
beautiful valley in the Himalayas’. Although the indignant residents of countless
other valleys across the mountains may disagree, there is definitely some justification
for the claim. Stretching for 95 km, the Sangla Valley is watered by the Baspa river,
which meets the Satluj at Karcham, and by several smaller streams and springs. The first
18 km of the valley are fairly narrow, with cedar, chilgoza pine and bhojpatra trees
covering the slopes on either side. At Kupa, however, the valley opens up and widens into
an unforgettably lovely vale, dotted with a pretty-as-a-picture villages, right up to
Chitkul, beyond which habitation is almost nil.
The Sangla Valley
stretches across what was once a glacier moraine but is today a gorgeous swathe of green,
dwarfed by the surrounding mountains. The clear waters of the Baspa run between orchards
of apple and apricot, through villages where the houses have exquisitely carved wooden
doors and steeply sloped slate roofs; an area so amazingly lovely that the natives
actually say that this is where the gods live.
A week of trekking
through the Sangla Valley and you just might end up agreeing.
When to go
Winter, keeping in mind the Sangla Valley’s northern location, is not a good time to
go trekking here- it’s bitterly cold from November to March. Summer, too, tends to be
rather drippy, because of the monsoons. The best time to visit the valley, therefore, is
late spring or early autumn- before or after the monsoons. Time your trekking visit for
April to end of May, or September to mid-October.
Access
The Sangla Valley’s largest and most important village is Sangla, which has regular
bus connections to Simla and Rekong Peo. Alternatively, if you’re coming from Rekong
Peo (which has direct bus connections to Delhi, Chandigarh, Kalpa, Kaza and Simla), you
can take a bus to Sangla. For most visitors, the most convenient route is by rail, plane
or bus to Simla, and from there to Sangla by bus. The journey from Simla to Sangla is
about ten hours; it’s a distance of 230 km.
Vehicles can also be
hired at Simla, Delhi or Chandigarh to get to Sangla.
Precautions and Essentials
Even though the Sangla Valley lies fairly close to India’s national border, no
permits are required to visit the area. Don’t venture beyond the valley without a
permit, though, as treks to Spiti and northern Kinnaur require an Inner Line Permit.
As far as packing is
concerned, you’ll need to carry all the necessary equipment- tent, sleeping bag,
cooking stove, fuel and the like. It’s also prudent to take along supplies of food,
just in case you set up camp at a place away from the larger villages of the valley.
It’s also recommended so that you don’t put an unnecessary strain on the rural
economy of the valley, a subsistence economy which depends almost entirely on the local
annual crop.
Adequate woollens must
be packed, too: the Sangla Valley is far enough north to be fairly cold even during the
summers. Between June and September, make sure you’ve got a good raincoat, waterproof
boots and extra clothing to cope with the frequent monsoon showers.
Accommodation
Good camp sites exist in the Sangla Valley, most of them close to the junction of the
Baspa and Satluj rivers. Further on, in the larger villages of the valley- such as Sangla,
Kupa and Chitkul- local guesthouses and small hotels are available. Usually comfortable,
they’re a good option if you get sick of sleeping under the stars. In smaller
villages, you might be lucky enough to find hospitable villagers who will let you have a
room for the night, but be prepared to pitch a tent by the river or up on a slope.
Trekking Routes
If you want to restrict yourself only to the Sangla Valley, then the best trekking
route to take is along the valley, following the course of the Baspa River from its
junction with the Satluj up to the village of Chitkul. If you’ve got more time to
spend in trekking, an alternative is to
travel to the neighbouring areas of Kinnaur and Garhwal.
Along the Sangla
Valley (Sangla-Kamru-Rakcham-Chitkul): The `basic’ Sangla Valley trek, this
trekking route follows the course of the Baspa River, from Sangla to Chitkul, the
last inhabited village in the valley. Start the trek at the Sangla village, the largest
settlement in the valley. Close to the village are two of the valley’s biggest
attractions: the Kamru Fort and the saffron farm. Kamru village, about a
forty-minute walk from Sangla, is an intriguing blend of
Hindu and Buddhist religion: a Buddhist temple where a local mural combines the
Buddhist Mahakala with the Hindu deity Hanuman is an interesting example of the native
culture. Kamru is also home to an old fort, constructed from wood and stone and decorated
with gabled roofs. On the outskirts of the village lies a saffron farm, considered better
than the one in Pampore, Kashmir.
From Kamru, walk on,
14 km along the bank of the Baspa river, to the village of Rakcham. Rakcham is home
to a pagoda-style temple decorated with fine
wood carvings. The village has accommodation and dining facilities (although limited) and
you can stay here for the night, before going on the next day to Chitkul.
Chitkul, 25 km from
Sangla village, is the last settlement along the Baspa; it has a campsite and a PWD
resthouse. Chitkul is a base for the Kinner-Kailash pilgrimage; trekkers can either go
further on the Kinner-Kailash trek, or walk another 4 km to Nagasthi, the last
Indian outpost before the Tibetan border. Note that foreigners are not allowed to go
beyond Chitkul without a special permit.
The
Kinner-Kailash Circuit (Morang-Thangi-Rahtak-Charang
La-Chitkul-Sangla-Kamru-Shang-Brua-Karcham): The mountain of Kinner-Kailash (not the
Mt Kailash, which is actually on the bank of the Mansarovar lake in Tibet) rises to a
height of 6,437 mt, towering over the Satluj river. The annual Kinner-Kailash yatra
is an important pilgrimage for thousands of devout Hindus and Buddhists, but hundreds of
avid trekkers also do the trip, for less religious reasons. The trek, which is best
accomplished in July or August, takes about a week, and starts at Morang, on the
left bank of the Satluj. Morang lies north-east of Chitkul and is connected by road to
Rekong Peo and Tapri. You can spend part of the first day exploring the old monasteries of
Morang, before you proceed. The actual trek starts at Thangi, a short distance from
Morang, along the gushing waters of the Turung Gad torrent.
From Thangi, walk 12 km up the valley to the village of Rahtak, where a
tent can be pitched for the night. The next day is an arduous trek up to the 5,266 mt high
Charang La Pass, after which the trail dips into the Sangla Valley. Follow
the Baspa River to Chitkul, then make your way to Sangla village, stopping
en route for a bit of sightseeing at Kamru. From Kamru, a trail leads, via Shang
and Brua, through Karcham, up to Kinner-Kailash itself. The trek up
the mountain takes a day in itself- or more, if you’re not in peak condition.
Note: The Kinner-Kailash trek is a difficult one, and it’s essential
to have an experienced guide along; don’t try to attempt this on your own. Also, keep
in mind the fact that this route passes through fairly uninhabited territory, so bring
along adequate supplies and suitable equipment.
- Chitkul-Doaria-Zupika Gad-Borsu Pass-Har ki
Dun: This trek starts at the fag end of the Sangla Valley- at Chitkul- and heads
eastward into neighbouring Garhwal, where it ends in Har ki Dun. Like the Kinner-Kailash
trek, this one too is a fairly gruelling one and should be undertaken only with a good
guide. The guide’s necessary not only because you might otherwise get lost, but also
to help you get the permits which are essential to pass through the area.
The Sangla Valley-Har ki Dun trek starts at the village of Chitkul,
at the end of the Baspa Valley, and continues across the river, up to the village of Doaria,
from where the trail leads right, heading towards Garhwal. The trek then leads up to the Zupika
Gad, and from there to the high Borsu Pass. Descending from Borsu, you’ll
come, in a few days’ time, into the ethereally beautiful valley of Har ki Dun
in Garhwal.
More
information on trekking in the Sangla Valley may be obtained from the offices of the
Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation.. |
