Forming
the junction of the Western Ghats and the Eastern Ghats, the Nilgiris- the `Blue
Mountains’- are amongst India’s oldest mountain ranges. The hills, a part of the
Nilgiri District of Tamilnadu, stretch across the borders of the state into the adjoining
states of Kerala and Karnataka. Easier to traverse than the mighty Himalayas, the Nilgiris
are often cited as being better suited for novice trekkers. The gentle slopes and
temperate climate of the region mean that even those with little or no experience
won’t end up getting completely fatigued. The beauty of the Nilgiris, however, is
such that even veteran hikers will enjoy themselves.
The three main towns
of the Nilgiris- Udhagamandalam (better known as Ootacamund, or more familiarly, Ooty);
Kotagiri and Coonoor- are perfect bases for interesting treks into the Nilgiris. Low,
gentle slopes, where dense forests of shola trees alternate with tea estates, orange
groves and coffee plantations; a land where tribes like the Todas, the Kurumbhas and the
Irulas still live in a way which has changed little over the past centuries. The Nilgiris
are interspersed with tiny villages, with tranquil blue lakes and elegant cottages where
teatime is still the hour for hot buttered crumpets, scones and strawberry jam.
A trek through the
Nilgiris is a great way to see the hills- to wander through forests of rhododendron in
full bloom; to visit the wildlife-rich sanctuaries of Mudumalai and Mukurthi; to walk
through rolling green downs and along rippling streams… It really doesn’t get
better than this.
When to go
The Nilgiris, unlike the Himalayas, are a year-round destination. Never do these hills get
too hot or too cold for trekking; summer temperatures range between 12 and 25ºC, while
winter temperatures never go below 3ºC. Summer, however, is when the area is pretty
crowded, so winter- particularly between November and February- is a better time if you
would rather give the crowds a miss.
Access
All three main towns of the Nilgiris- Ooty, Kotagiri and Coonoor- are conveniently
located, with good connections via road and rail. Coimbatore, which is linked to the rest
of India by air, rail and road, is just 112 km from Ooty and 80 km from both Coonoor and
Kotagiri. Regular buses to the Nilgiris depart from Coimbatore; in addition, taxis and
vehicles can be hired from Coimbatore or Chennai to do the trip.
A train also links
Coimbatore- and other southern cities- to Mettupalayam, in the foothills of the Nilgiris.
Mettupalayam is, in turn, connected by road to Ooty (54 km) and to Coonoor and Kotagiri
(both 35 km).
If you’re in
southern India, probably the most viable route would be by rail to Mettupalayam, and then
by road into the Nilgiris. From another part of India, a flight to Coimbatore, followed by
a bus ride to Coonoor, Ooty or Kotagiri is best.
Precautions and
Essentials
As compared to the Himalayas, the Nilgiris are easier trekking, not just because
they’ve gentler slopes and more equable climate, but also because there are fewer
restrictions on moving around. No entry permits need to be collected from district
officials, and it isn’t essential to book a trekking guide, although you might like
to hire one to help you out.
As far as clothing and
other `essentials’ are concerned, remember that nights in the Nilgiris can get
chilly, even during the summer, so take along light woollens for summer treks. During the
winter, heavier woollens are necessary packing. On all treks, take along insect repellent,
sun glasses, and a floppy hat. Bottled water and food is generally available all over the
Nilgiris, so unless you’re heading deep into tribal territory, you needn’t stock
up on either.
Accommodation
Ooty is, of all of the Nilgiris’ hill stations, the most commercial. Overrun by successive generations of
tourists wanting to escape the heat of the Indian summer, it has built up a fairly good
tourist infrastructure, which translates into plenty of places to stay in and around town.
These include guest houses, hotels and cottages, some of which are very elegant and
old-fashioned.
Coonoor and Kotagiri
too have their share of guest houses and small hotels, although most of these are not
anywhere close to luxurious. Outside of the larger towns, accommodation options will
invariably be limited to government-operated resthouses and forest bungalows; pitching
tents will usually not be necessary, unless you’re way off the beaten track.
Trekking Routes
Treks from Ooty
Ooty, once the summer capital of the British in India, as well as the place where snooker
was invented by an officer called Neville Chamberlain-
has a pretty, distinctly colonial charm which has managed to survive more than half
a century of being totally Indian. The town itself is known for its exquisite Botanical
Gardens- established in 1847- and is the base for a number of interesting treks, some long
and some short, into the surrounding hills.
- Ooty-Parson’s peak-Porthimund-Mukurthi National
Park-Pandiar Hills-Pykara Falls-Mudumalai National Park-Ooty: A long trek which heads north-west from Ooty, taking you through some of
the prettiest and most unspoilt parts of the Nilgiris. Parson’s peak, which
towers over Parson’s Valley, can be reached on foot or by bus- it’s a
three hour ride. Once you reach Parson’s Valley, however, you should begin your trek:
the area’s so picturesque, it deserves every bit of time you can spend wandering
through it. From Parson’s Valley, trek on to Porthimund, a village lying deep
in the hills. A tent can be pitched here for the night, before you go on to Mukurthi,
a well-known wildlife preserve. Dominated by the Mukurthi Peak (36 km from Ooty and
so named because it resembles a human nose), the Mukurthi National Park is a dense forest,
inhabited by a fascinating cross-section of Indian fauna: leopards, elephants, tigers, the
highly endangered Nilgiri tahr, and the more common deer, monkeys, birds, and reptiles.
Mukurthi has a
forest bungalow which, though not the height of luxury, is comfortable enough and makes an
excellent base for exploring the sanctuary.
From Mukurthi,
head north, through the Pandiar Hills, pitching a tent along the way for the night.
The next day, you can head for the lovely Pykara Falls, along the Pykara Lake, and
then work your way north to the Mudumalai National Park. One of southern
India’s most important wildlife sanctuaries, Mudumalai is densely forested with
bamboo, teak and sandalwood and has a large population of elephants. The park’s also
home to deer, monkeys, tigers, wild boars, sloth bears, gaur, and birds.
From Mudumalai, you
can trek back to Ooty, or you can take a bus- there are
regular buses between the park and the city.
- Ooty-Avalanche-Upper Bhavani-Kolaribetta-Emerald -Ooty: A
shorter and more manageable trek, this one gives you a glimpse- tantalising in itself- of
the Nilgiris. Although you’ll see only the very fringe of the Mukurthi National Park
along the way, there are plenty of pretty sights- a lovely lake, dense forests, and a
quaintly-named village- to make this a rewarding trek. Head south-west from Ooty, past the
Avalanche Dam, to the village of Avalanche, in the Avalanche Valley (nobody
here was too imaginative when it came to choosing names!). Named after an
`avalanche’- a landslide, really- in 1823, Avalanche is a riot of shola trees,
rhododendrons, orchids, magnolias and a trout stream: absolutely lovely. You can stay for
the night at the local forest department guest house, and trek south the next day to Upper
Bhavani. A dam on one of the prettiest lakes in the Nilgiris, Upper Bhavani’s
good for a picnic, before you pass into Mukurthi National Park and head north
towards Kolaribetta. At 2,625 mt,
Kolaribetta is one of the highest peaks in the Nilgiris, and a trek to the summit, while
not very tiring, will reward you with an unparalleled view of the surrounding countryside.
From Kolaribetta, go north-east, towards Ooty, stopping en route at the village of
Emerald. Nobody seems to be very sure of why Emerald has such an unusual name- but
nobody’s complaining. It’s a pretty place, and perfect for a picnic by the side
of the lake. There are buses to Ooty from Emerald, so you have the option of completing
the trip by bus.
Short one-day treks to
Ooty’s nearest tourist attractions are also possible; these include the thickly
forested area of Glenmorgan, 17 km from town and rich in eucalyptus, wattle and
rhododendron plantations; and Dodabetta, the second highest peak in the Western
Ghats. Dodabetta, 2,638 mt tall, towers over the surrounding hills and lies about 10 km
from Ooty. The hike to the top isn’t much of a challenge, and will earn you a
splendid view, as far as Coimbatore and even the Mysore plateau.
Treks from Kotagiri
- Kotagiri-Kodanad ViewPoint-Catherine Falls-Elk Falls: Kotagiri-
deep in the heart of the Nilgiris- is Kota territory, the home of one of the region’s
most important tribes. Kodanad View Point, about 20 km from Kotagiri, lies on the
eastern edge of the Nilgiris and offers a fantastic view of the area for miles around.
Picturesque tea estates and the Moyar River are among the attractions in the area. From
Kodanad ViewPoint, on the way back to Kotagiri, you can stop at two of the best-known
waterfalls in the region: Catherine Falls and Elk Falls. Both are within
eight km of Kotagiri, and are popular with picnickers.
Treks from Coonoor
- Coonoor-Lamb’s Rock- Lady Canning’s
Seat-Dolphin’s Nose-Law’s Falls-The Droog-Coonoor: A trek which takes you
through nearly all the tourist attractions which lie within reach of Coonoor. Start by
trekking up to Lamb’s Rock, nine km from Coonoor. The rock, on a high
precipice, overlooks the Coimbatore plains and offers excellent views of the tea and
coffee estates in the area. Further along the road from Coonoor, past Lamb’s Rock,
lies Lady Canning’s Seat, named for the wife of the viceroy. Like Lamb’s
Rock, Lady Canning’s Seat offers a spectacular view of the Nilgiris.
Trek on from Lady
Canning’s Seat to the towering rock known as Dolphin’s Nose. About 12 km
from Coonoor, Dolphin’s Nose is shaped much like the snout of a rising dolphin; it
is, like Lamb’s Rock and Lady Canning’s Seat, great for taking photographs of the countryside- you can
even see, nearby, the beautiful Catherine Falls. On the trek back towards Coonoor, do a detour to Law’s
Falls, about five km from
Coonoor, along the road to Mettupalayam. The falls, near the junction of the Coonoor and Katteri rivers, are a
popular tourist attraction.
From Law’s Falls,
head for the Droog, about 13 km from Coonoor. Also known as Pakkasuran Kottai, The
Droog, or Shankari Droog, is the site of a ruined 16th century fort which
is believed to have been used by the legendary ruler of Mysore, Tipu Sultan, in his
battles against the British. The fort, which is situated at a height of about 750 mt, has
a number of medicinal springs in the vicinity, of which the most famous is the Maan Sunai
(`Deer Spring’), which is never touched by the rays of the sun. When heading back to
Coonoor, if you’re feeling lazy, there’s a bus which goes to the town; it,
however, doesn’t go to the summit of the peak, so you’ll have to get to the foot
of the hill- a trek of about 3 km- on your own two legs.
The Nilgiris
Trekking Association, 31 D, Bank Road, Ooty, and the Nilgiri Wildlife and
Environment Association (the NWLEA) at Mount Stewart Hills are among the best
organisations from whom information on trekking in the Nilgiris can be obtained. Other
options include the Tourist Information Office at Charing Cross, Ooty, and the Wildlife
Warden at N Mahalingam & Co. Building, Coonoor Road, Ooty.
Although no permits are actually required to trek
through the Nilgiris, it’s advisable to inform the District Forest Officer once your
trek is planned- especially if you’re going on a long trek through the forests.
Keeping the DFOs informed of your route helps you get some much-needed help and
co-operation at forest bungalows and from forest rangers.
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