Hundreds
of years ago, merchant caravans loaded with the treasures of the East- silk, musk, wool,
livestock, borax, dry fruit, and semi-precious stones- would travel down the forbidding
wastes of the Gobi desert, making their way through the Himalayas, along the Satluj river,
and heading west. The Silk Road, as the route came to be known, invariably passed through
a settlement which became, as time passed by, the most important market town along the
border of India and Tibet: Leh. Starting off as a tiny settlement, the town grew over the
years, into an important trading post. Merchants travelling from as far as Yarkand, Khotan
and Kashgar would look forward eagerly to a halt at Leh, where they could have a brief
respite from the gruelling conditions of the trail.
Leh is today regaining
part of its former importance. The capital of Ladakh district, the town, a refreshing
stretch of greenery along the bank of the Indus, lies amidst the stark, arid mountains of
the far north. This region is one of heavy snows, biting cold winds, little vegetation and
a beauty which is, in places, almost unbelievable. It’s also an area of medieval
Buddhist monasteries; of vivid red prayer wheels; of millions of prayer flags fluttering
from every pole and every bridge. A land with a blend of mysticism, traditions, natural
beauty- and yes, it must be admitted- swiftly growing commercialism- which is definitely
worth a visit.
Trekking through
Ladakh isn’t easy- its’ harsh, rugged terrain and inhospitable climate is enough
to tax the most seasoned of hikers- but once you’ve walked these trekking trails, you
could easily get hooked for life.
When to go
The passes which lead to Ladakh, whether Zoji La on the Srinagar-Leh road, or Rohtang on
the Manali-Leh road, are choked by deep snow and ice for eight months in the year. Every
year, when the snow melts, is when the roads are open- usually between late June and late
October. This is, as you’ll guess, about the only time you can get to Ladakh, other
than by air. Although you can get to Ladakh in the winter by plane, it’s
really not recommended. Temperatures can drop to below -40ºC and frostbite,
snow-blindness and hypothermia are very real risks.
Time your trekking
trip for summer; it’s really the only time to visit Ladakh.
Access
Leh airport- the highest in the
world- is connected by Indian Airlines (Alliance Air) and Jet Airways flights that come in
from Delhi, Jammu, Srinagar and Chandigarh. Foreigners have to pay a US $10 entry fee.
From the airport there are shuttle bus services and shared jeep-taxis to town. Weather
conditions can be erratic in Leh and flights get cancelled at short notice. Check before
travelling and book well in advance, since flights are usually full, particularly in
summer.
Leh is connected by two major highway routes, one from Manali and the other coming up from
Srinagar. Both traverse treacherous mountain routes and high passes, often getting blocked
due to landslides. The Leh-Srinagar road runs close to the border with Pakistan and is
often blocked by the army. The road connection to Leh is open only in the summer months
from mid-June till end of September. You can do the route either by private car and jeep
or by the tourist buses that run from Manali. Buses come in to the town bus stand, close
to the main bazaar.
Precautions and
Essentials
Special permits are required for visitors going to the Nubra
Valley, Pangong Tso and Rupshu. The permits are available free of charge from the
Collector’s Office near the Polo grounds. You have to submit two photographs and
photocopies of relevant pages of your passport. The permits are usually valid for seven
days and are issued to groups of four or more travelling together. Several photocopies of
the permits should be made as they need to be produced at the various checkpoints.
Foreigners have to pay a fee of US$20 to enter the area.
Even in summer, although the days may be
quite warm- even hot in places like Leh- evenings tend to get chilly. Pack sufficient
protective clothing, including something to ward off the bone-chilling winds which whoosh
down the mountains; they’re deathly cold. Make sure to carry some Vitamin C and
aspirin tablets for the high altitude. The scorching sun in the day can result in sunburn,
so carry a protective lotion, hat and sun glasses. While trekking, take along your own
food and plenty of fluid, preferably in the form of bottled water. The entire region of
Ladakh- barring parts of the Nubra Valley- is very dry, and if you’re not careful,
there’s a risk of dehydration.
Accommodation
Leh is full of hotels and guest houses, most of them clean, cheap and comfortable.
Accommodation, therefore, is not a problem in Leh, but further out- in the wilds-
you’ll probably end up having to pitch tents or staying in the so-called
`guesthouses’ in the larger villages. Settlements like Sumur, Diskit, Panamik,
Hunder, Lamayuru and Dha-hanu have small guesthouses, most of them rooms let out by local
villagers, but these are invariably few and far between. In most cases, a tent is what
you’ll have to sleep in.
Trekking Routes
- Spituk-Rumbak-Yurutse-Ganda
La-Skiu-Markha-Nimaling-Kongmaru La-Chogdo-Hemis-Leh: Starting at the tiny village of
Spituk, only about 8 km from Leh, this trek goes right up to the lovely Markha Valley, and
then to the renowned Hemis Gompa, the largest Buddhist monastery in Ladakh.
Start by taking a tour of the Spituk
Gompa, an 11th century Buddhist monastery which houses a fine collection of
ancient thangka paintings, masks, idols and weaponry. From Spituk, travel along the
Jingchen Valley to the Ganda La pass, going through Rumbak and
stopping en route for the night at Yurutse. Ganda La, at an altitude of 4,900 mt,
is one of the two mountain passes on this trek; once you’ve traversed it, you descend
into the Markha Valley, stopping for the night at the village of Skiu. After
Skiu, the track starts rising again, up to the alpine pastures of Nimaling, past
the high reaches of the Kongmaru La pass, and on to the village of Chogdo.
Camp for the night at Chogdo, then trek on to Hemis. The gompa, which lies in a
mountain valley along the Indus, houses a number of valuable idols, scriptures and
Buddhist paintings; at the height of summer, it’s also the site of the
heavily-attended Hemis Festival.
A daily bus connects Hemis to Leh, so you can actually end your trek
at Hemis and go to Leh by bus.
- Lamayuru-Wanla-Hinju Valley-Konze La-Sumdo
Choon-Stapski La-Alchi: One of the most popular treks in Ladakh, the Lamayuru-Alchi
route connects two of Ladakh’s most scenic villages, both with interesting old
Buddhist monasteries. Lamayuru, 124 km from Leh along the road to Srinagar, is the
start of the trek; once you’ve had a look at the fascinating Lamayuru Gompa –
believed to have originally been a temple of the now extinct Bon Po religion- you can
begin the trek. Start by ascending to the little-known Prinkiti La pass, then
trekking down into the Shilakong Valley, where the village of Wanla is
situated. Wanla, known primarily for its gompa, is a suitable place to pitch camp for the
night.
From Wanla, trek on to the Hinju Valley, which is a good base camp for a
detour to Konze La. Konze La, at 4,950 mt, offers a wonderful view of the mountain
ranges all around, and it’s one of the few places in Ladakh where there’s still
a possibility of spotting the elusive snow leopard or the highly endangered blue sheep.
From Konze La, you can return to base camp in the Hinju Valley, and continue, the next
day, to the village of Sumdo Choon, where there’s another gompa, profusely
decorated with ancient paintings. After a night at Sumdo Choon, climb up to the Stapski
La Pass, from where a day’s descent brings you down into the valley to Alchi.
Alchi, with its 11th century fresco-filled gompa, is worth a bit of
sightseeing, before you go on to Leh.
- Lamayuru-Prinkiti La-Wanla-Hinju-Konze-Sumdo
Choon-Dung Dung La-Chilling: A variation on the Lamayuru-Alchi trekking route, the
Lamayuru-Chilling route is basically identical to the trek to Alchi, at least till Sumdo
Choon. From Sumdo Choon, instead of climbing up to Stapski La, ascend to the Dung
Dung La pass. Dung Dung La, with its stunning views of the Zanskar Valley, leads down
into a valley where the main village is Chilling. From Chilling, you can either cross the Zanskar River- by a pulley bridge- and
go on to the Markha Valley, or you can trek back to Lamayuru, and from there go on to Leh.
- Trekking Routes in Zanskar: Bisected by
the Zanskar river, the region of Zanskar is less visited than the rest of Ladakh, largely
because it’s harsher and has fewer facilities for accommodation, food, and the like. Trekking in Zanskar
is possible, but should always be done with an experienced guide, and with sufficient
supplies to see you through the trek. Among the more well-marked trekking trails are the Pensi La-Padum
trail, the Padum-Darcha trail, the Padum-Leh trail and the Karsha-Lamayuru trail. The Padum-Leh
and Karsha-Lamayuru trekking routes are particularly taxing, and should be undertaken only
if you’ve had some experience of trekking in the mountains, and are physically in
peak condition. If
you’re really adventurous- and a veteran at trekking- you could try trekking to Zanskar in winter, when the Zanskar river freezes
over, and can be used as a
trail. It’s traditionally been used as a winter pathway by the local traders, but
be warned: this requires a lot of fortitude
and it’s not going to be a cakewalk.
Other popular trekking
routes in Ladakh include the Stok-Khangiri round trek, the Lamayuru-Padum trail,
and the Hemis-Markha-Padum trek. Trekking through the Nubra Valley and in the
vicinity of the Pangong Tso lake is also possible, but less common, as in both cases,
there are high passes to be crossed- Khardung La on the way to Nubra and Chang La on the
way to Pangong Tso. Crossing these on foot can be arduous, and most tourists content
themselves with admiring them from the comfort of a hired vehicle.
Ladakh’s ecology is extremely fragile, so be very careful not to disturb
it while trekking through the area. Be especially cautious about disposing of waste; carry
out all tins, bottles, et al- don’t leave rubbish behind you.
Further information on trekking and sightseeing can be obtained from the
Tourist Information Centre at Fort Road, Leh, or the Assistant Director of Tourism, at the
Tourist Reception Centre, Leh (Tel: 01982-252297, 252095).There are, in addition,
countless travel agents, tour operators and trek organisers all across the main market of
Leh, who will be able to help plan a trek, arrange for permits and supply both guide and
equipment. |
