These two tiny temple towns
16 km apart were once at the centre of a great empire. The 12th century
Hoysalas who ruled from here had a culturally thriving reign. They patronized the arts and
encouraged temple architecture. The temples from this period, specially the ones in Belur
and Halebid, are less famous than but as tingling as those of Khajuraho. Visitors are
invariably impressed with the sheer number and quality of these temples that bear silent
testimony to the up-down course of time. Now just two small towns that sit quietly by each
other, Belur and Halebid are nevertheless great places to at least look into if not to
stay in. The bustling town of Hassan is a transportation hub and
where most visitors to the two temple towns of Belur and Halebid stay.
Belur
The
Hoysala capital before Halebid, Belur stands on the banks of the River Yagachi. Along with
Halebid, (both cities are usually spoken of in the same breath), it presents to the
visitor some of the best and most refined Hindu art and architecture. If finely
detailed carving and sculptures that seem to live fascinate you, then prepare to be
entranced at the Chennakesava Temple. The earrings on the lobes of the lovely dancers can
rotate, and droplets bead the hair of some. It’s almost as if a whole living world
froze as you entered, waiting to take up where they paused after you leave. Built in 1116
AD to the flute-playing, butter-stealing but incredibly wise incarnation of Vishnu, Lord
Krishna, this temple proves the amount of importance art enjoyed under the Hoysala kings.
They encouraged the practice of having artists actually sign their pieces!
It was the medium of
steatite that allowed the artist to really have his imagined creation come true. Soft
initially and so easy to detail, steatite hardens with prolonged exposure. This temple
that took over a century to create still has daily prayer offerings. Most of the
superstructure has collapsed but the interiors with their fascinating columns and
intricately carved brackets are simply awe-inspiring. The gopuram (tower) has sensual
carvings of dancing girls that could rival anything in Khajuraho. 3
Two other comparatively
minor temples in Belur are the Viranarayan and the Chennigaraya, both finely sculptured
and from the Hoysala times.
Halebid
Halebid was the capital of
the great Hoysala kingdom from 1311 to 1327, when it got destroyed during a Delhi
Sultanate attack. Originally called Dvarasamudra, it was renamed Halebidu (or ‘old
capital’) when the seat of power shifted. The Hoysaleswara Temple is the largest
Hoysala temple and luckily it survived the attack by the northern invaders. Actually two
shrines, both dedicated to Lord Shiva, both with rather big Nandi bulls facing the
entrance, this temple was never really completed in spite of the 87 years that were poured
into its construction. Begun in 1121 this temple has beautifully carved detailed
depictions of scenes from the epics, of mythical seemingly Gothic figures and sculptures
of much of the Hindu divine pantheon. Though the superstructure was never completed every
inch of the existing structure is covered with intricate painstakingly carved sculpture.
This labour of love is truly numero uno stuff.
The Archaeological Museum
has some ancient statues and other finds. The Kedareshwara Temple and the Jain Bastis
(temples) also deserve a dekko (‘dekho’ is Hindustani for ‘look’). Be
certain to carry a torch: some of the old masons made light of the matter of ventilation
and illumination!
Getting There:
The nearest airport is at Bangalore from where it is about 4 hrs by road to Belur, and
another 20 minutes to Halebid. There are direct buses on this route and a daily train from
Hassan, 1 hr away by road. The nearest railway station is at Hassan (1 hr). There are
trains to Hassan from all over the state. It’s very easy to get to Belur from here.
Buses run through the day till 11:30 in the evening. There are direct services from
Bangalore, Mysore, Mangalore and Arsikere though not very frequent ones. The best way to
reach Belur or Halebid by bus if you are dependent on public transport is from
Hassan, which is very well connected to the both these place as well as to the rest of the
region. Otherwise you can rent a car with a driver at Hassan and do the circuit at your
own pace.
Getting Around:
If
you decide to take a bus anywhere around you’ll realize that there are a lot of
people in these little towns. There are regular buses plying between Belur and Halebid,
and from both places to Hassan but they aren’t a very comfortable option. Belur and
Halebid can be covered on foot, or you could rent a bicycle for the day. For the 16 km
intervening distance (Belur-Halebid; 33 km-Halebid-Hassan) hire a cab or take an
auto-rickshaw.
Accommodation:
Most people stay in close by Hassan, which has a small museum of its own but has really
grown to importance as the gateway to the temple circuit. Hassan is very well connected to
Bangalore and Mysore by rail and road and has a decent range of hotels and restaurants.
Belur is now in the throes of development so there is some basic accommodation available.
Halebid has only the one state-tourism hotel, which is neat but not air-conditioned.
However, it’s a nice enough place to spend a night in, in `rural’ India.
Food is out and
out basic and simple at all three places, Hassan, Belur and Halebid. Most restaurants
serve only vegetarian fare, though some do have the non-vegetarian alternative. You
won’t come anywhere near starving; in fact you’ll do quite well on the simple
wholesome fare, only don’t expect it to get even as fancy as vegetables and white
sauce!
City Getaway: The
important coffee town of Chikmaglur is to the northeast of Belur. It used to be ex
PM Indira Gandhi’s parliamentary constituency for a while. There is an old Hoysala
temple, mosques, a Roman Catholic cathedral and an old moat. Luxury accommodation is
available as is a cheaper range.
For
detailed state and visitor information, see Karnataka. |
