Yamunotri and Gangotri are revered as the sources of the two most holy rivers in India, the Yamuna and the Ganga. Kedarnath and Badrinath have shrines dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu, two of the gods in the Hindu trinity. High up within the mountain ranges, these shrines remain remote and difficult to reach. The main season for the Char Dham Yatra, or pilgrim tour to the four shrines is between May and November, when the snow melts and the access paths open up. There are special ceremonies at the temples in each of the sites when the gates open at the beginning of the season. The temple gates close again in mid-November when the shrines are covered with snow and become inhabitable.

Getting There: While Badrinath and Gangotri have roads connecting up to the main shrines, Yamunotri and Kedarnath can be reached by trekking some distance up the last leg. The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam organises special Yatra tours, most of which begin from Rishikesh. Greater road accessibility due to a large military presence and increasing pilgrim traffic has affected the fragile ecosystem around these holy sites. The glaciers where Ganga and Yamuna originate are receding at an alarming pace, there is widespread deforestation around Badrinath and Kedarnath to meet the fuels needs during rush season. Nevertheless, these ancient shrines continue to attract thousands of devotees who brave the difficult terrain and the biting cold to be in communion with the gods.

High up in a deep cleft on the western face of the Banderpunch peak is the Yamunotri shrine, worshipped as the source of the holy Yamuna River. At a distance of 223 kms from Rishikesh, this mountain shrine is one of the most difficult to access at 3,235 meters. Though technically the source of the river is on the Champasar glacier at Saptarishi Kund another 12 kms further up, it is at Yamunotri that pilgrims come to worship the goddess Yamuna and bathe in its chilled waters.

According to Hindu mythology, Yamuna the twin sister of Yama (Lord of Death), descended from the mountains at this point to rejuvenate her devotees. Legend also says that in ancient times the sage Asit meditated near the shrine. The temple dedicated to goddess Yamuna is relatively new, built by the Maharani of Jaipur in the 19^th century. Due to heavy snowfall and earthquakes, the temple has been destroyed and rebuilt several times.

Yamunotri remains covered with snow and out of bounds from November till May. In summer, when the ice melts, the access is opened up, but temperatures remain low. Monsoon showers are quiet heavy between July and August. Again from September till early November the weather is clear. Towards closing time, severe cold weather sets in.

The nearest road head is at Hanuman Chatti, 14 kms short of the shrine. Going through pristine forests, along the gushing river and over rugged mountain trails, this five-hour journey can stretch even the most rugged traveller. At the end of the journey you are greeted by some of the most magnificent views of snow-capped mountains rising majestically around the shrine. An air of divine bliss surrounds the valley and all the pain of the journey is forgotten.

Treks up to Dodi Tal, 13 kms. ahead of Yamunotri, also begin at Hanuman Chatti. While some travellers halt at Hanuman Chatti, others continue onward to the village of Janki Chatti. Travelling along the Yamuna for about 6 kms from Hanuman Chatti you reach Phul Chatti with some teashops and food stalls. Beyond, across the river the trail widens and leads to Janki Chatti, with its sulphur springs. It is also possible to halt at the GMVN Bungalow or other hotels here. Off the main trail for about a kilometre across the river, you reach the village of Kharsali, home to the pandas (priests) of the Yamunotri temple. This traditional village with stone houses and elaborately carved wooden structures has a triple storeyed Shiva temple dedicated to Someshwar. In this incarnation, Shiva is known as the lord of the nectar of eternity, soma.

After Janki Chatti, the trail gets steeper and more treacherous. It also becomes dramatically rugged with superb views of high mountains and forests. The temple at Yamunotri sits next to the river, around hot sulphur springs of the Surya Kund. Rice cooked in the hot water of these springs is distributed as prasad (offering) to the devotees. After worshipping a rock pillar known as Divya Shila, pilgrims enter the main temple. A silver image of the goddess is installed here. Worshippers bathe in the holy waters of the river, in the belief that it will wash away all illnesses and sins.

Below the temple on the other side of the river is a cluster of tea stalls and shops selling items needed for religious offerings. From the main temple, at a distance of about 29 kms is the ancient temple site of Barkot. A road connects to this hamlet from Hanuman Chatti, though the road is extremely treacherous and prone to landslides.

Getting There: Regular buses ply from Rishikesh up to the road head at Hanuman Chatti, 210 kms away. It takes about 9 hours to reach Hanuman Chatti, which is also connected by bus services from Dehradun and Mussoorie. From here, a five-hour 14 km. stretch has to be covered either on foot or on ponies that are available for hire.

Carry adequate woollens, including blankets since the accommodation is very basic. For those who want to continue on more difficult treks beyond the Yamunotri glacier, all the trekking gear has to be carried from Rishikesh.

Accommodation: there are GMVN Tourist Bungalows at Hanuman Chatti and Janki Chatti along the way, as well as one in Yamunotri. In addition there is a cluster of private guesthouses and Dharamshalas that offer accommodation at cheap rates. Only vegetarian food is served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited. There is a post office near the temple.

Introduction
Nestling amidst deodar forests at 3,048 metres is the shrine of Gangotri, worshipped by Hindus as the source of their most sacred river Ganga. At a distance of 105 kms. from the town of Uttarkashi, Gangotri is the spiritual source of the river, while its actual source is the ice cave of Gomukh 18 kms up the Gangotri glacier. Slashing through the towering mountains and cutting deep gorges, the river gushes forth in great force to begin its descent onto the plains of northern India.

Beginning in the month of May and lasting till early November, the temple dedicated to goddess Ganga at Gangotri sees thousands of pilgrims coming to worship and bathe in the holy waters. Here, Ganga is known as Bhagirathi, named after the ancient king Bhagirath who prayed to bring her down from the heavens. The other major tributary, the Alaknanda emanates from glacial waters near Badrinath and joins the Bhagirathi further down at Devprayag to become the magnificent Ganga. Considered the most sacred of all rivers, this great life-giver of India continues to be worshipped as a goddess. Bathing in her waters brings deliverance from sins committed in the present and all past births. The water is used for purification in Hindu ceremonies and in the final hours of life gangajal (waters from the Ganga) is administered to the dying for deliverance of the soul.

Gangotri remains snowbound during winter from November till April. Only when the snow melts can one reach the shrine. Nevertheless, temperatures remain low even in summer when the glaciers melt to release ice cold water. Monsoons bring heavy showers, often disrupting life in the upper reaches. Towards the end of October and in November, it gets severely cold near the shrine.

As you travel from Uttarkashi, 53 kms short of the shrine is Gangnani, with its hot springs and beautiful apple orchards. Close to the shrine is a track branching off the main road leading to the village of Harsil at 2,620 metres. Set next to the river, it is an old Bhotia village lined with stone pathways winding through apple orchards. From Harsil you can branch off into the mountains on short treks through forests and alpine meadows to sites like the Sat Tal. Going up 10 kms from Harsil across the Bhagirathi gorge, you reach the tiny hamlet of Lanka. Traversing the mighty river this bridge is said to be amongst the highest in the world. Since this area is a sensitive military zone, photography is not allowed near the bridge.

9 kms short of Gangotri is Bhairon Ghati with its forest shrine of Bhairav Nath (incarnation of Shiva). Here the Rudragaira emerges out of its gorge to meet the Bhagirathi. A GMVN Tourist Bungalow at the village is available for overnight stay.

After the short trek from Bhairon Ghati, you reach the shrine of Gangotri, set amidst rugged mountains and overlooking the thundering river at 3,048 metres. Made of white stone, the temple is decorated with a gilded roof crowned with a central spire.

Inside the temple is the silver image of the goddess. Near the temple is the Bhagirath shila, a stone slab where king Bhagirath sat to meditate. Nearby is a natural rock shivalingam, which is believed to be the spot where Shiva sat to catch the river’s fall. The lingam remains submerged in the waters and is partly visible close to winter when the river starts freezing. On reaching the shrine pilgrims offer prayers at the temple and go down to the main bathing ghat next to the river. Across the river are the ashrams and guesthouses. Dev ghat, down below and set amidst tall trees, is the confluence of Bhagirathi with the Kedar Ganga. At Gaurikund magnificent waterfalls create a pool, which is reached through forest paths along the Gangotri gorge and over a rope bridge across the mighty river.

Steps lead up from the temple to join the trail leading to the Gangotri glacier and the ice cave of Gomukh. Passing through grand mountain vistas, you reach a forest checkpost where a charge of hundred rupees has to be deposited. The charges are refunded on return. At Chirbasa, 7 kms. from Gangotri the mountains tower all around in sheer glass-like walls. A short halt at the tea stalls and simple dhabas rejuvenate the traveller onto the path that now rises above the tree line. Over a mostly arid landscape and a treacherous trail, you cross a stream to get your first sight of the glacier’s snout. The 24 km. long glacier spreads out in front and the Bhagirathi peaks stand majestically above.

At the bottom of the valley is Bhojbasa under the massive Shivling Peak (6,543 metres). A GMVN Guest house with simple rooms, dormitories and tents is available for staying overnight. In addition, there are some ashrams and private hotels. Before proceeding on the last leg to Gomukh, you can rest for the night at the picturesque hamlet of Bhojbasa. A 5 km. trek leads up to the source of the Bhagirathi at Gomukh. Literally meaning mouth of the cow, it reflects the shape of the glacier, which constantly changes its form at this point. The river comes out of a cavernous opening in the glacier, with large chunks of ice crashing down into the waters. Standing at this point is very dangerous. It is worthwhile to brave the chilly winds and come for a view of the sunrise over Gomukh. A celestial site, the first rays of the sun transforms the ice-blue glacier into gold and then spreads light along its path. Around Gomukh there are several tea and snacks stalls and flat areas for setting up tents.

Getting There: Gangotri is 248 kms. from Rishikesh, the nearest rail head. Regular bus services connect Gangotri with Rishikesh. Uttarkashi, further north and 97 kms from Gangotri is the other major town on the road up and buses, private taxis as well as shared jeeps are available to reach the shrine. The road leads right up to Gangotri, though parts of it were badly damaged during a severe earthquake in 1992 and may be blocked occasionally by landslides. The Yatra season is from May till November. The opening of the temple gates in May is worth watching. The main pilgrim rush is usually around June, when the town becomes an overcrowded mess. Monsoons are bad for travelling because of the landslides. From September again the weather is clear and the roads easier to travel on.

Accommodation: Gangotri has a collection of private hotels, ashrams as well as a GMVN Tourist rest house. The Forest Rest House near the river has a very attractive setting and can be booked through the Divisional Forest Officer at Uttarkashi. The tiny hamlet of Harsil, at the bottom of the Gangotri gorge also has a GMVN Guest House. Only vegetarian food is served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited. There is a post office near the temple. Be sure to carry adequate woollens, including blankets since resources can get stretched during the peak season.

Around Gomukh

6 kms ahead of Gomukh a side trail leads to the meadows of Tapovan and Nandanvan. Climbing up a tough trail going along the left edge of the Gangotri glacier, you need to take a diagonal path across after about a kilometre. A very dangerous path, the icy sheets hide deep crevasses underneath and can give way under pressure. Be very cautious and travel only with experienced guides available from Gangotri or Bhojbasa. After crossing, you need to do a steep ascent over loose rocky ground to reach the green meadows of Tapovan from where you can get a spectacular view of the majestic Shivling peak. There are two ashrams at Tapovan where you can rest your weary feet. But resources are limited in this remote site and it is better to carry extra supplies and camping equipment if you plan to spend more than a night here.

On a similar trail from Gomukh, but going straight across the Raktaban glacier you reach Nandanvan, the other less frequented alpine pasture under the Bhagirathi peaks. The meadows are surrounded by a line of majestic peaks, including Bhagirathi, Shivling and the Kedar Dome (6,831 metres).

17 kms. from Gangotri after a steep climb of some 2,000 metres is the celestial emerald lake of Kedar Tal. Situated at a height of 5,000 meters, this is where the Kedar Ganga originates. A rough trails leads through dense forests from Dev Ghat in Gangotri. Travelling along the Kedar Ganga for about 8 kms you reach the pastures of Bhoj Kharak. From here, pine forests give way to the birch trees. The bark of the birch tree was used in ancient times to write on. This pristine land amidst towering trees is ideal for setting up camps. Beyond is a tricky stretch of road prone to landslides and avalanches.

After about 4 kms you cross the tree line to reach another pasture at Kedar Kharak. 5 kms up from Kedar Kharak is Kedar Tal. The crystal waters of the lake reflect a line of Himalayan peaks, including the Thalesagar (6,904 metres), Bhrigupanth (6,772 metres) and the Jogin group. Kedar Tal is also the site for setting up base camps for climbing the surrounding peaks.

Introduction
Kedarnath set at a distance of 223 kms from Rishikesh is one of the most sacred mountain shrines of Lord Shiva. At a height of 3,581 metres, this ancient site nestling high in the Himalayas is close to the source of the Mandakini, one of the tributaries of the Ganga. Amidst stunning landscape of stark mountain faces, deep gorges and snow peaks, the Kedarnath shrine is amongst the most important in the Himalayas. To gain access to the shrine, pilgrims have to pass through forested slopes, green terraced fields and apple orchards on a precipitous trek. The shrine opens between May and November. For the rest of the year it is covered with snow and the deity is worshipped lower down at Ukhimath.

According to Hindu mythology, when the Pandavas reached the Himalayas, they searched for Shiva to bless them. The lord tried to escape by disguising as a bull and mixing with a grazing herd. Bhima, one of the Pandava brothers, straddled the valley and let the herd pass through his legs. When he saw one bull refusing to pass through, he recognised it as Shiva. On being spotted, Shiva dived into the ground at Kedarnath, with Bhima holding onto his back.

While his hindquarters remained at Kedarnath, the other parts of his body emerged in four locations, thus giving rise to the Panch Kedar or five Kedars. While the lingam remained at Kedarnath, the arms appeared at Tunganath (3,680 metres) with the highest temple in India, the face at Rudranath, the navel at Madhmaheshwar in northwest Garhwal and the hair at Kalpeshwar over the Alaknanda valley. Originally built in the 8^th century, the stone Kedarnath temple was visited and sanctified by the great Hindu philosopher saint Shankara. He also had the temple renovated when he visited it in the 9^th century.

Kedarnath has extreme cold weather conditions. In the winter months from November till April the shrine remains covered with snow. During the Yatra season too, temperatures remain low. The trek to Kedarnath begins at the small village of Gauri Kund with its Gauri (goddess Parvati) temple and hot sulphur springs or Tapt Kund. Pilgrims usually halt at Gauri Kund on their way up and back from Kedarnath. There are several small hotels, ashrams and a GMVN Tourist centre in the village. From Gauri Kund a pony trail leads up through pine forests with a scattering of teashops alongside to reach Rambara. Halfway up to Kedarnath, the small hamlet has some basic rest houses and food shops.

From Rambara, the alpine zone begins and the road gets steeper and more difficult. After a very tough climb the track eases out a kilometre short of Kedarnath at Garur Chatti. Beyond, as you round a corner on the trail, you suddenly come upon the southern face of the grand Kedarnath peak (6,940 metres) at the end of the Mandakini valley.

The Kedarnath temple nestles in the shadow of this great mountain. Between the temple and a bridge runs a main road is lined with rest houses, ashrams, the administration offices and shops selling religious paraphernalia. Built of grey stone, the temple stands at the head of the small settlement. Outside the main sanctum stands a massive stone image of Shiva’s Nandi bull. Inside is the main shrine with a curiously shaped lingam. Unlike the traditional shape, at Kedarnath it is conical, symbolising the hindquarters of Shiva. Priests sit around the lingam and perform religious rituals. The head priest of Kedarnath, known as the Rawal, belongs to the Namboodiri Brahmin sect of Kerala, the land of Shankaracharya. The Rawal also serves as the head priest of the Badrinath shrine. Behind the temple is the samadhi (memorial) of the saint-philosopher Shankara who died at this spot.

To the south of Kedarnath a path leads up the hillside to the ancient temple of Bhairav Nath, a fearsome embodiment of the lord of destruction. Till the 19^th century fanatic devotees jumped to death from a cliff near the temple in the hope of attaining salvation. The spot is known as Bhairava Jhamp, though the ritual has long since stopped.

Getting There: The nearest rail head is at Rishikesh, 223 kms away. From Rishikesh, regular bus services are available up to Gaurikund, 14 kms short of the main shrine. The remaining 14 kms stretch has to be done either on foot or on ponies that are available on hire.

When to go: The Kedarnath temple opens in the spring season of Vaisakhi in May. From May till early November, the shrine is accessible for visitors. On the first day of the Hindu month of Kartik, the temple closes for the winter.

Accommodation: At Kedarnath, the temple committee runs a guesthouse besides the GMVN Tourist Bungalow. Besides these there are several private hotels and dharamshalas that offer cheap accommodation. Only vegetarian food is served in the hotels and ashrams and alcohol is strictly prohibited. There is a government medical clinic, a sub-post office and a State Bank of India branch at Kedarnath.

Carry adequate woollens, including blankets since resources can get stretched during the peak season.

Around Kedarnath

Crossing the Mandakini over the main bridge, a trek leads up the valley to the far edge of the glacier at Chorabari Tal, now known as Gandhi Sarovar. About 800 metres short of the lake lies the source of the Mandakini. According to mythological tales, the eldest Pandava Yudhishthir left for heaven near the lake.

6 kms up from Kedarnath is another lake, the Vasuki Tal at a height of 4,135 metres. A winding track leading up from the GMVN Bungalow goes up hill for about a kilometre and then across some very rough terrain to reach the lake. Surrounded by snow mountains, the placid lake offers good views of the Chaukhamba peaks. 20 kms from Kedarnath is another trek route leading to Sonprayag, the confluence of the Son Ganga with Mandakini. 5 kms beyond Sonprayag is the ancient temple of Triyuginarayan. Believed to be the spot where Lord Shiva married Parvati, the temple has an undying flame that is said to be the marriage fire of the divine couple.

Amongst other sites around Kedarnath is Gupt Kashi, 45 kms away with its temples of Ardhnarishwar (half male-half female form – a unification of Shiva and Shakti) and Vishwanathji. Ukhimath, 60 kms below, is the winter shrine of the deity at Kedarnath. It is also home to the Rawal or head priest for the winter months. On the road to Gopeshwar from Ukhimath is a quiet hill resort called Chopta. Situated at a height of 2,500 metres Chopta is a picturesque Himalayan retreat with splendid views of the snow-capped mountain ranges all around.

Introduction
The Vishnu temple of Badrinath is located 298 kms from Rishikesh and 48 km from Joshimath . This holy town nestles at a height of 3,133 metres. A forest of Badri (berries) trees, known as the mythical Badrivan once covered the area. Just 40 kms. from the border with Tibet, it is now of strategic importance to the Indian army, who maintain a road link throughout the year. The great Nilkantha peak (6,558 metres) towers over the temple set deep down in the Alaknanda valley. Steep slopes running down the sides of the shrine are snowclad in winter and often prone to avalanches. As with the other Char Dham shrines, the Badrinath temple opens only from May till October. It closes down for winter in November, when the deity is carried to Pandukeshwar for worship.

According to legend the two shrines were once so close to each other that the priest could perform puja (worship) at both the temples on the same day. The rulers of Garhwal built the present temple of Badrinarayan some two hundred years ago. Many saints and holy men have meditated at the site and there are quaint legends about some of them who survived the most severe conditions while performing penance here.

The original Badrinath shrine, built by the 9^th century saint Shankara, has been re-built several times over due to damage from avalanches and snowfall. Made of wood, the temple stands 15 metres high, topped with a gilded cupola. The exteriors are painted in bright colours every year before the temple gates open. Standing in sharp contrast to the grey concrete buildings around it and the stark mountain slopes behind, the temple resembles a Tibetan gompa from a distance. Inside, it is divided into three parts, the inner sanctum or garbha griha where the main deity resides, the darshan mandap for rituals, and the sabha mandap where devotees gather. The black stone image of Vishnu, known as Badri Vishal, is seated in the lotus mudra (posture). The head priest of Badrinath is also that of Kedarnath, hailing from the Namboodiri Brahmin caste of Kerala in southern India.